hjtrbo

It should. There are cold start modifiers that you'd leave alone. You'll still need a device to control the LSU 4.9. Are you open to welding in another bung and let the narrow bands do there thing? The DLP-8 is back in stock and still cheap.

It will obey base fuel but if your injectors are off then who knows what you'll end up with out the tail pipe as your O2 sensors are no longer correcting the injector data error. It is a another good option to tune a car in open loop. Ideally you would have 1 in your open loop table for idle and cruise areas and (assuming turbo) 0.8 in your high load areas. Then plot lambda from your wideband against commanded EQ. From there you would dial in your injectors so that the wideband matches the base fuel table +/- a few % in steady state driving. Then rinse and repeat on a tank of E85. There will be a few back and forwards. After that switch on closed loop and enjoy. Now that you know your injector is as close as it will ever get then any small fuelling adjustments can be made in the VE tables for 98 and e85 tunes.

I like where you are taking this. Thanks for your efforts

Be interesting if you can get the temps above 70deg C if the adapt value will change. That is my next test when I get the bypass installed.

I wish I could give you the gospel. I cannot. I can only rely on professional service technicians advice that is very widely populated on YouTube (disclaimer: am I spreading internet mis information >>> I can't back this up as I do not have the experience) that the adaption values overall provide the health of the transmission. They won't tell you what exact part has failed, but they can tell if the box is healthy. For example if the E clutch adaptions are maxed and you have problems with that shift then it is fair to say the computer has tried all it can to maintain the quality of that shift but can no longer do so. Logic tells me the adapts are the go to for lifecycle information. With regards to adaption value changes, I have seen these parameters that leads me to strongly believe it is important to install a trans cooler thermostat bypass valve when doing a cooler upgrade to remove the milkshake cooler. I have one on order and am yet to fit it and test. My trans temp never makes it passed 70°C (usually sits around 55-65°C) and my adapt values never changed after changing solenoids and valve body seals. But changing those parts did cure my TCC rpm fluttering on freeway cruising. Fluid Control Thermostats : 3/8'' NPT Fluid Control Thermostat Kit (derale.com)

@G6ETURBO I haven't bothered to look for all yet. If my trans ever starts playing up I'll look for them... You might be able to find them. If you do, please log it and we'll see if we can make sense of it. Spending a lot of time lately concentrating on my VF LSA as I gave it a big fuel pump / system upgrade with new injectors and flex sensor. Oh how I love e85! Next time your hooked up to the trans, look for something along the lines of... Clutch xyz Adaption Value Charge Pressure in mBar Clutch xyz Count: Adaption Cycles Charge Pressure Clutch xyz Adaption Value Quick Charge Time in ms Clutch xyz Count: Adaption Cycles Quick Charge Time

Try this, Make sure to log transmission shift TPS (not regular TPS) In manual mode only, set all unlock columns to 1 In 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th lock set all columns to 8000 Make 2L = 600, 2M = 800 & 2H = 1000 Gently take off in manual first then shift to 2nd as early as possible (before 600 OSS). Very gently accelerate in 2nd up to OSS 1200. Pull over and have a look at your log. You should see the lock up start at OSS 800 and be completed by 1000. This should get you started.

Im at work tonight so cant spend ages on the phone. I have a post on how it works buried here somewhere.

Dump this in and see how it goes. It's based off your open loop file you posted earlier. Have put the majority of turbo DTC's back to stock and raised up your desired boost table a couple of pounds above where you are running it. Also used the wastegate multiplier on spark delta to force the wastegate open during a gear shift to help reduce the boost spike. Just do a simple 3rd gear pull to 6000rpm so you can see if it works or not. Disclaimer: I didn't check out the rest of your tune, you're responsible for that. Knock ears and a wideband are mandatory when learning to tune. 13551451_F6Sprint-OpenLoopSetup_Rev1.tec

How I have my open loop setup is my desired boost is setup about 3psi higher than what I actually see. This keeps it away from any flags etc but if my wastegate fails it will take action. MK1 FG XR6T Edit: I think you are hitting the 5 sec timer in auF11827. Upping your desired boost like I do should get you out of that timer. 85_In Car.tec

Yep, that's the flare I'm trying to get rid of. Haven't been able to solve it as yet. On the GMs you can set a minimum apply pressure and also adjust the pressure apply ramp which is a 3d table with slip and load as the axis. This is enough to stop the flare ups and run the minimum pressure needed to minimise parasitic drag. Worked around it a different way by locking up the converter as soon as it goes into the next gear. Not ideal as i lose the flash up when at low revs. Havent played with it for a while.

E.g. Pretty sure for 2-3 ZF00607 is oncoming pressure. Be very careful adjusting this. If you ramp it in to hard you will tie up with the offgoing clutch. The theory would be to reduce WOT row shift time 5% at a time and closely monitor the log for WOT shifts. It will adapt to a point, but may run out of adaption. At that point you would increase the oncoming pressure and / or line pressure. At some point you will not be able to go any faster. I haven't got around to testing the theory above and log the adapts to see if I'm on the right track.

Can reduce slip time to make it shift faster. Need to be careful. Making it to small can cause slip. Need to log. Shift pressure and oncoming clutch pressure may need adjustment.

If you're on the right table and logging the right ZF DMR's you will see your changes. As you're chasing decel, you need to hit the unlock part of the TCC tables. Lower numbers will keep it locked up for longer. Post a log chief, will make it heaps easier to help.

For GM you can get the Tech2Win emulator software and GDS2 that will work without a subscription. https://www.vxdiagshop.com/info/download/ hosts the install files. With a clone passthrough device (Chinese MDI2, VX Diag Nano etc) with the software mentioned you have full dealership diagnostic access to any GM vehicle (including Holden VF). But unfortunately if you want to do module firmware updates or program a new / replacement module you still need to pay the AC Delco subscription. It's not too bad though, $60 2 year access per VIN. I use the VX Diag Nano on my VF and have it found it excellent for the price. Can't go wrong. Bi-directional controls are awesome for testing! Also paid for the subscription to get the latest updates to all the vehicles modules and radio.

Never hurts to tool up. I'd be interested.

In addition to the excellent previous suggestions, I've had good luck with ROYAL SYNTRANS MV.

Sorry man, never fucked around with BA. Shouldn't be hard to find though. Use the search bar in the logger.

Max at the rpm switch point. See what that does. Roland said you want that thing disabled anyway.

Lol, 600 is pretty high. Each clutch has an adaption limit. Haven't found what they are yet. But the fact your is an even number strongly suggests 600 is it for the E clutch haha. There is a bug fix in the works to fix the line pressure value. It is out by a factor of 100. This is what I log. Should help you out.

I see, you got that intake manifold runner switch. Valve closes at >3,900rpm All I can see is... MAP at Zero Airmass IMRC Open auF0057 MAP at Zero Airmass IMRC Closed auF16456 Slope of MAP per AIRCHARGE IMRC Open auF0060 Slope of MAP per AIRCHARGE IMRC Closed auF1911 Like I said, never mucked around with a N/A anything before. If manual, just do what Puff said and add it to the base fuel. If auto, can still do as Puff said but just keep an eye on data logged torque to make sure it looks like plausible. Generally at WOT, rear wheel torque plus 130N gets you close.

Never mucked around with a BA before. Are you auto or manual?

Get injector data spot on first. After you've had enough of that, follow what Puff said and hit the SD tables.