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P2110 Rpm Guard


G6ETURBO

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Hi All, I'm having an issue when the car is cold and i put it in Reverse/Drive idles will raise up then the car goes into limp mode and throws the P2110 code. If i start the car and put it in reverse straight away it wont happen, Only if i let it sit for like 10-15 seconds then put it in gear ill get the code, But even if i do put it in reverse straight away by the time i reverse out of the drive way and go to put it in drive it will throw the code then. The car does have a aftermarket cam if that makes a difference. 

Is it okay to zero off the P2110 in dtc controls? Or can i raise auF0517 to a high number to stop it from happening? 

,Thanks

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11 hours ago, G6ETURBO said:

Hi All, I'm having an issue when the car is cold and i put it in Reverse/Drive idles will raise up then the car goes into limp mode and throws the P2110 code. If i start the car and put it in reverse straight away it wont happen, Only if i let it sit for like 10-15 seconds then put it in gear ill get the code, But even if i do put it in reverse straight away by the time i reverse out of the drive way and go to put it in drive it will throw the code then. The car does have a aftermarket cam if that makes a difference. 

Is it okay to zero off the P2110 in dtc controls? Or can i raise auF0517 to a high number to stop it from happening? 

,Thanks

It's always best to fix problems than try to tune around them. Is the P2110 code the only one you're getting? I'm asking because sometimes, there's others that may be seen in conjunction with P2110.

Start with the easy one....check the throttle plate operation & clean it with some throttle body cleaner.
image.thumb.png.9b47001546e0a13d47f58f47146b981e.png

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  • 2 years later...

Hi all, I replaced my throttle body on the weekend just in case that was an issue however i still cannot get rid of this code when putting it in gear. This only happens on a cold start and if i attempt to put the car in gear it will just go into limp mode (p2110). I have posted a log of it happening, i have added a startup closed loop delay timer which has somewhat helped, however it still happens occasionally. If anyone has any insight would be greatly appreciated. FYI the car does have a set of TBRE cams in it.

 

p2110.teclog

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They are very sensitive to a dirty throttle body. Check the wiring, make sure a pin hasn't backed out or loosened up. Check for water in the plugs or inside the sheath around the wiring as this will cause issues when everything else seems fine. There isn't much to see in the log, you can see where it plays up but there isn't anything else going on that I could see.

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Take your intake off and check the physical throttle. I've seen ones with holes drilled in them before. That or the usual oily gunk. 

Also smoke test your intake with the throttle open. If you have a leak post TB you will get issues, you can also diagnose this by abnormally low ignition timing (as the pcm is trying to correct for the airleak). 

Edit :you have cams. Cams reduce VE and require more throttle for the same torque. You usually need to tune the IPC tables to allow for more throttle for a given air mass or tune the speed density to account for the decreased VE at low throttle/rpm. 

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  • 1 month later...

I have smoke tested the intake and I haven't found any issues, Have also have checked the throttle body. It seems like the initial change from park>gear has a large increase in the idle target maf which then is causing a raise in RPM, 9 times out of 10 I get a P2110 code when the RPM rises. Also want to confirm if increasing Idle Airflow in Park/neutral (auF0032) will assist in getting Idle air integrator closer to zero?

 

Idle.teclog

Screenshot 2024-02-16 174830.png

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Check your target idle is a reasonable number, generally you can get away with 650 in neutral and 650 in gear with large cams. From there check that your idle airflow numbers in gear and neutral are also reasonable. An easy way to get it very close is to highlight the entire (stock) column and multiply it by 1.1 aka 10%. You can repeat this process one more time if needed. Add another 5% just under your target idle area if the revs want to drop too low when pulling up to a stop. This will get you very close.

Have a look between the middle and the bottom of your borderline knock map on the far left columns, there will be some negative numbers there. It looks like you are touching those load/rpm points and having the car run negative timing. This can show up as a dead spot when you initially touch the throttle from a stop. It can be worse with the ac on and you may need to use more than half throttle to get the car out of those areas, just to get it to move. If there are negative numbers there, make them all 8 degrees. This will help with the idle staying stable.

To answer the obvious, if your idle air error is miles off then you should adjust it to get it closer to 0. If it is out a lot then it will want to either idle high or low for a second or two and will affect the ignition timing which makes it worse. The car should be dead smooth when changing from park to drive etc, if there is a rpm jump then the idle target and idle airflow need adjusting. Fyi mine is out anywhere from 0.01 when hot up to 0.15 when cold and I have no issues with codes or limp mode etc.

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