Roland@pcmtec

Sounds like your cable is faulty. Is it a genuine cable from Tactrix or Ti Performance?

That error means the drivers are found but no power was detected. It means either the cable is faulty or the connection to the vehicle has an issue. Most likely power related. Is this a stock falcon or a conversion car?

What error do you get?

The whole point of making a drastic change is so you know which way it works and the outcome is obvious. You don't leave it like that.

You say spark cut but there is no spark cut, do you mean fuel cut? or do you mean spark retard? Also Darryl isn't wrong. It depends what kind of torque reduction you are talking about. He is talking about throttle reduction, you are talking about spark retard or maybe fuel cut? Depending on the table, by increasing a number you reduce one type of reduction and increase the other type. So there is not simple "reduce the number to reduce the torque reduction". You have to decide what type of torque reduction you want, then you tune the numbers to suit. Sometimes it is easier for you to experiment with these settings yourself. Eg try raising the number drastically and log throttle and spark. Datalog if the throttle shuts or the spark is retarded. Then try reducing the number drastically and see what happens.

There is no longer a public beta release available for those who are asking. This is as the 2.xx version we are working on is not yet stable enough to be released to the public. When it is we will offer it to selected workshops first and then it will go on the website before release.

1.25 has been released and is a maintenance release. These fixes improvements are all in the backend to help us diagnose crashes/bugs and to resolve some specific user experience issues in the custom os wizard Improved error handling that allows some errors to be "ignored" so you can save your data instead of closing the editor. Resolve a freeze in the custom operating system conversion wizard under specific use cases. Disabled the "previous" button in the custom operating system wizard as this could cause customers to reset all their tables without their knowledge. Users will have to create a new custom os using the "start over" button if they wish to create a fresh file. Minor bug fixes and improved performance. If you are experiencing any crashes or bugs that have not been addressed PLEASE file a bug report with us via the link below. If we don't know about it, it is unlikely it will be fixed. https://www.pcmtec.com/contactus In case people are wondering what we are working on, we are now working full time on version 2.xx of the Editor which we are aiming to have complete early next year. This has a massive amount of changes related to Mustang and F150 related support. Included will be all 2015-2020+ 2.3, 3.5 ecoboost and 5.0L v8 for the US, EUR and AUS Market. There are also large scale changes to the datalogging package. This will be discussed in detail when it is released.

Ti Performance do next day express shipping from VIC

It would be a huge pain in the ass and everything would run worse. Why?

What were the mechanical issues?

Is your load changing? Is your map sensor pegged? This could be a tuning issue.

Yes but it is not really that simple. auF2071 This table controls the temperature decrease due to increase in lambda. There are a few limits but it will go as low as 0.75 lambda to control temperature. The simple method to tell if this is the case is to simply switch off the exhaust/cat protections when tuning then turn them back on afterwards to check.

Ok then that should be fine. How is the gauge set up, is it measuring the pressure differential of fuel pressure vs boost? Or is it measuring it vs atmospheric? If it is measuring vs boost it should be flat at 4 bar.

When you say rising rate reg, do you mean a boost referenced reg, eg it holds a flat pressure + boost pressure? Or are you saying its flat pressure + boost pressure * factor. As in the pressure will be more than the base + boost? Eg it is not a 1:1 ratio? If is above 1:1 ratio I'm not even sure how you'd tune this as it might not be linear. It sounds horrible and I'd highly recommend against this.

Fuel pressure should never change with heat. If it is changing the regulator is faulty. You don't need to put crazy pressure through the system unless you are cheaping out with stock injectors or aiming for crazy power/boost levels.

Are you sure your wideband is working properly?

Exactly. Put the stock reg back on it and check all the return lines are run correctly.

Are you trying to make 1000hp? If not put the standard regulator back on. 1680cc is huge

What does your fuel pressure do across the wot run? Is it flat? What do you mean it rises?

Yes the offset is the deadtime. They are the same thing. Minimum pulse width is simply a minimum clip value.

I cannot emphasise this enough. We regularly see people burn days due to trying to tune around something mechanical. Eg fuel pressure spiking at idle or dropping at redline. Blocked injectors, fake map sensors etc. Spark plugs not gapped and missing etc. Massive boost leaks etc. You must check fuel pressure and all your non oem sensors are operating correctly before tuning the car. Once you are sure all the above is ok aim for 1-2% LTFT (long term fuel trims) before tuning WOT otherwise you will go in circles. Read all the HOWTO guides on injectors regarding this.

Min pulsewidth should be above the dead time. Min pulsewidth is basically saying between deadtime and now the injector will be dribbling or otherwise unreliable in its fuel delivery (misfires etc) so clip it at this pulsewidth to ensure combustion is complete (but it will be rich as a result). Properly designed and sized injectors should never hit the min pulse width clip to ensure good fuel economy. Dekas are a great example of a crap injector needing a high min pulsewidth to operate without misfiring and hence have poor fuel economy and run below lambda at cruise/decel as they are hitting the min pulse width clip.

Just sent you a PM with a recommendation of someone who can assist with some paid training/help with this.

This is a case where you will need to experiment.

Whatever you want it to be. 1000rpm seems to be a good starting point for a manual. Auto might want to be lower.