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@2X044. How quick have you managed to get the engine to shut down? Have you tried instantly I.e. set auF11960 set to 0. Would be very good to have it shut down that quick if fuel or oil pressure drops dangerously low.

Agree with Puff. 150psi is a better choice to cover all bases. Here is the Honeywell oil pressure sensor plumbed in for reference. Just common fittings available from any industrial supplier. Edit: It did effect the reported oil temp. New solution linked here: https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/1491-micro-controller-using-can-bus-data-for-ancillary-control/?do=findComment&comment=10650

@2X044 perhaps. I have 2 Honeywell MIP series selected for fuel pressure and oil pressure duty. Data sheet supports anything automotive and as such I am confident that this is a good purchase. Roughly $130AUD each Pressure Sensor 100PSI Honeywell (efihardware.com).

Thanks @Bill. Converter lock up settings also has an effect. Stupid OSS bias. As a side project there is benefit in looking at the situation table and modifying that to limit the amount of shift patterns that are in play.

Or seals or bushes or piston. Dtc codes are your first thing to keep an eye on. Its not hard to drop the valve body and do the solenoids and seals. Fresh filter and fluid and see how it goes.

E clutch is high. How did you go with the DTCs? Anything come back?

The United pumps here have "always contains 85% ethanol" labelled on them. Hasn't been 85 for a while like it used to be. Another reason to go meth injection and 98.

Go with the stoich change to start off with. You might get lucky with your injector data. Do a careful small wide open pull focused on the wideband, and adjust the stoich to get fuelling right. If you end up a little off what ideal stoich is I wouldn't worry.

Scan again for a few days to see what comes back. If that u0100 comes back start off by checking the connector. What are your adapt values showing with the logger?

Not fun. Any fault codes? Adapt values? Cold flash failure is a massive red flag. Certainly nothing to lose by swapping the mech unit. How long had it been since the solenoid and seals were changed?

To all involved, massive respect for your efforts and especially for sharing. Bloody great work 🤙

#fuck_the_brake_pads_and_rotors 😀

Just pump that left foot up bro and get that calf muscle working. #Old_school_road_dyno_steady_state

Ooh, cgocloate hangiber. Consider a hobbs switch and stage your fuel pumps. That will help heaps with the hot fuel. Or if you're rich use one of the electronic pwm drivers.

Ah, maybe lower the transient gain. Possibly a small change in injector PW is a large change in delivered fuel. I've had way to much chocolate. Pinging off my head.

Maybe try 3.5bar base??? Still should spray alright at that pressure. I guess if your cruising up the road at 50km/h and fuelling is everywhere no matter what you do, then I'd put money on that being injector all day long. Conversely, if it is stable and trims are good at 50kPa 1500rpm but trims way off at 70kPa 1500rpm then perhaps the tuning correction table will help. Tuning correction table explained here. There is quite a bit to it if you go into how it's derived. Ideally you'd find the PID and log it https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/218-speed-density-tuning/?do=findComment&comment=1364

Also, I remember Roland saying a while back somewhere about the tuning correction table being inferred load or something like that and that it acted more like tps input. If I can dig up that post I'll link it back here.

Yeah, that's right in a shit spot. Most injectors won't go properly linear till 2-3ms. Can you lower fuel pressure and still have enough up top?

Is the tuning correction table worth exploring in that area? The axes would suggest so TPS vs RPM. I presume you have no overlap commanded running at the light load so reversion should be ruled out? How's your injector DC PW down there? Bloody big injectors love running on low slope lol.

231 should work as should 222 for the V8's. I just have experience with 234 so can state some things more confidently. The TCM's all have the same OSID for FG & FG2.

Agree. Tuner nerd has a new permanent install knock block available. Your device would be nice to have a minimum selector (takes the lowest value) that triggers the fault action. I.e. low meth level, meth controller fault, knock box output active, fuel pressure out of range, oil pressure out of range etc etc... where those inputs are configured a priority, with the most severe shutting down the engine, whilst the least severe could drive the rear O2 sensor input low on a flex fuel tune which would push the PCM towards a safe timing / boost / fuel map.

Have you got a licensed version of pcmtec on your laptop? The Professional version will get you a long way. Nothing stopping you from doing it yourself. Public knowledge is scarce for some reason but remember, you're not reinventing wheel. Infact, if you do go down the road of doing it yourself, please do share what you found. Allot your conversion, all that comes to mind is a pats delete and a vss speed source change. Everything else would be common sense; garbage in = garbage out. APS-234 is gold standard. That said, you still can use an external boost controller with APS-231, but not the ideal solution. Nothing to worry about with a PCM TCM mismatch, that is easy fixed without even trying. I've found so long as PCM is APS-234 and TCM OSID is the same (2008-2014 or there abouts) I've found any cal can be written to the TCM and all is required is a calibration level scalar change on the PCM side.

Yeah, any dodgy shit going on and they'll know about it.

I checked out his page. Damn, they do some bloody nice work. I liked that they are working with the CanBarra crew to integrate the multi-tune into the Landcruisers. Can't argue with the price for the standalone ECU service. FG turbo or NA ecu modification.... - Custom Machine Works | Facebook

What is the part number of the PCM? APS-234?