Roland@pcmtec

Ford IDS only properly works with a VCM2. VCX Nano is a J2534 like the openport as far as I know, Forscan will work with the openport. If you need MS CAN you actually need one of the cheap ELM327 cables (with the MS/HS can switch) to work with Forscan properly.

We get asked regularly how can multiple tunes (MFT) be installed toggled in a conversion car that does not have the factory dash/cluster. There are several possible solutions here. Firstly if you have a barra Patrol conversion (very common). CANBarra make a module which will translate the canbus to drive factory Nissan tacho/speedo and cruise control buttons. https://www.facebook.com/CANBarra/ The above setup can then be tested with our dash emulator. This would allow testing/developing a multi tune on the bench if required. If you have a different conversion car and you are not using a canbus driven tacho/dash then you can operate a dual tune or an infinitely variable boost/power tune from either a toggle switch, or a rotary dial. This could be set up as high boost/low boost, or a 10 stage boost dial, or simply an e85/98 tune. For details on how to do this, see the wiring instructions in the following how to guide. If you can transplant a factory dash then the following guide explains how to set up the MFT in a normal factory car.

You could try Sam at CTB Performance, they are very capable, if they haven't done it before they would likely be able to without too many dramas. https://www.ctb.co.nz/

You may be able to reconfigure the ABS module with Forscan or Ford IDS by unplugging the ABS, doing an offline config, selecting the correct file, plugging it back in and programming it.

You need to connect to the vehicle first by pressing the "vehicle" button.

There are adders for MBT and borderline based on IAT, ECT, lambda etc. Datalog all of the above, check the adder tables and work out what it should be.

Change the max spark clip. Realistically 55 deg is likely MBT at cruise or close to it, you might go backwards increasing timing past this.

I haven't read everything in this thread (will do tomorrow) but something I can quickly add is the xr6 sprint runs much richer than other cals, this means more lambda adder will be applied and hence more total spark. I have also heard from an OEM calibrator that the sprint had to run that rich (0.68 from memory) as it would destroy the catalytic converters after a single 0-200kph run otherwise. So knowing the above, a lot of what Ford do is for reliability and emissions. This means the maps might be far from optimal from a performance perspective if you have aftermarket exhausts, intercoolers etc. I also heard there was a very small budget for the sprint calibration, so it did not get the love it needed. 12 degrees of timing at 2.2 load, 1500 rpm would ping its head off. @richardpalinkas it sounds like you want an optimal cal, the only way you are ever going to get this is on a load cell dyno holding it in steady state spending hours with knock ears on. Plenty of people will hire you a dyno for cheap if you find shops that have dynos un-utilised, I highly recommend you do this. It will be a great learning experience and you'll get the results you want. You won't be satisfied relying on knock sensors and road tuning as there is too much guess work and you simply cannot ever be confident in your work.

There is a DLP button to manually connect it on its own if you need.

It controls idle to rpm used a closed loop airflow and spark controller. So when you turn on the AC the idle drops, this makes the airflow controller kick in and give more airflow which then increases idle back to the setpoint. You'll see that the TPS and the load increases when this happens. To make the car still chop when this happens you need to datalog the TPS and load making sure the cam timing tables have overlap at these two values.

Should be fine as that is a newer OS again.

It is on the cards but we have a few other items to do first. Namely get the datalogger out of beta, then add mustang logging support.

Yes you can change the fan timers/temperature setpoints to effectively make it a single fan system. If you were lazy you could OR two relays together and wire the fan off that without needing to modify the tune.

Its a keybanger on demand. Love it. Add injector slopes/min pulsewidth to the launch tune for actual flames. I turned my cat into a ball of molten metal and shot it out the exhaust. Whoops.

Change the axle ratio. If this is a roller dyno it's probably wrong.

New public bug report forum for any other issues people find can be found here. Make sure your forum email address is the same as your registered email address if you post in here, otherwise send us an email with a link. https://forum.pcmtec.com/forum/5-bug-reports/

Continue discussion in this thread.

Anyone who wants to set this up and test it on the bench without a cluster can now do so with our canbus cluster emulator.

For our internal QA we have built a simple canbus dash emulator. As the Mk2 FG uses a canbus dash this means we can emulate the cruise control buttons via canbus to do an end to end test of the multi tune system. This program doesn't use any of our source code and instead uses an open source J2534 library https://github.com/BrianHumlicek/J2534-Sharp We are also using a free version of the Arction WPF Gauge library so this program can be freely distributed. https://www.arction.com/free-gauges/ Here is a video of the emulator in action. This might be useful for anyone who is doing a mail order multi tune. You can download the program and source code here: https://pcmtecgeneralstorage.blob.core.windows.net/public/TestApps%2FPcmtec.DashEmulator.zip This includes a mk2 FG file which with PATS turned off so you can test this on the bench. BA/BF/FG Mk1 does not support canbus cruise control, so you will need to wire up the cruise control buttons manually.

Yeah custom would be the way to go. Personally if I was doing R&D I would just add lift and a tiny bit of duration with no overlap.

No cam grinder that I know of. Some workshops do their own cams and they might, I think Precision/Hoontune might?

I'm not really sure what you mean to be honest, what is the alternative?

The PCM assumes cams are installed with no overlap. Completely agree that it would be much simpler if cam grinders made all barra cams with 0 overlap and let the pcm do its job. Would halve the tuning time required. Overlap table is exactly that. It takes the intake cam position then adds the overlap angle to it to make it open sooner. Intake cam angle timing is simply +- top dead centre, so positive is retard, negative is advance.

Oh right, you've done a full FGX conversion. Why not just buy an FGX? 😆 Anyway yes those are Mk2 configurations however you need the exact config for that car. The workshop edition has a full strategy list of all ~900 calibrations, from that list you can figure out which diff ratio/gearbox is suitable. Otherwise the simplest method is assuming all the parts came from the same donor car (I hope so or you are in for a world of pain) is to simply use the calibration from that car as well (check the door tag). Have to remember that ALL modules must match and be from the exact same car for your swap to be successful eg ABS, Cluster, PCM and TCM. Even the cluster is different between a manual and auto, if any of that is wrong/mismatched you will have issues, most will let you start and drive the car, but your dash will be a christmas tree. If you have no idea what the donor car was or all the bits are from different cars then its unlikely you will solve this without burning credits randomly trying operating systems only to find that you have a manual cluster in an auto, or a non turbo ABS module etc. In that case I would recommend you pay to get someone like @Whiteford to sort you out.