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Roland@pcmtec

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Everything posted by Roland@pcmtec

  1. How have you flashed HAER1UB if you haven't licensed it? I doubt either file will work if you have a MK1. Mk2 is very very different in terms of canbus design.
  2. Follow this guide to rescale the axis easily.
  3. If you also have an FG with the same head and intake then yes it would be more accurate.
  4. They are all different and will provide their own voltage lookup.
  5. Yes I believe that is what they do. It is done at SAE conditions then they have coolant, lambda and intake temp modifiers multiplied on top. MBT will be slightly higher with ethanol as it has a slower flame speed, however the stock MBT is a great gauge to use. Something to be aware of is as soon as you change the turbocharger you change the backpressure and hence you change the MBT for the entire load scale making the factory calculation a guide at best. Because of this you can't simply chop and change between a sprint cal (with a GT3582) and a standard FG XR6T with a GT3576 Ultimately unless you have a dyno load cell and set up real time tuning you won't be recalculating MBT any time soon. So your best bet is to leave the stock MBT, work out your MBT at your max load row, then interpolate between the factory max load and your new max load. Because you are doing this on your actual real fuel, you are effectively making your MBT and borderline knock tables equal which is what you see in most aftermarket tunes. To do the spark tune properly like Ford do would take you thousands of litres of fuel and weeks of dyno time. Also have a read of this if you haven't already Also regarding rescaling load axis use this tool
  6. Fairly sure his has 3 voltage levels to indicate purge etc. So if you wire that into the flex fuel system input you can do it that way.
  7. Put any questions in here and tag @Matt
  8. There are some improvements coming with the search as there appears to be an issue with searching for items that are 100% capitals.
  9. It was asked how to log torque. There is the actual torque value, the targetted torque (if undergoing torque reduction) and the 14 individual torque channels. TQ_ACT -> Torque Actual TQ_TARGET -> Targeted Torque (eg reduction) TQ_LIM_x -> Torque Reduction Level (there are 14 of these that map to the torque requestors)
  10. Have you tried searching for TP in the datalogger?
  11. This actually was disabled/removed as people were doing it accidentally causing them a lot of grief. The easiest way now is to press shift, then click the top and bottom of the items you want to delete. Right click and press "Scalar Delete". You can also use the control key if you want to delete just one or two items from different parts of the list.
  12. This would require the workshop edition. Then follow these two guides to setup the dual tune toggle from the external input.
  13. I don't see any issues? Depending on what kind of LPG system you have you would need to manually switch this on/off though. Alternatively wire in a relay to the dual tune trigger which is triggered off the LPG switch here. @Darryl@pcmtec has done this in his Territory.
  14. Roland@pcmtec

    Hey guys

    Yeah it is like the BMW ZF vs the Falcon ZF. Same box but no similarities in software at all. Same with the Mustang 10R80 vs the Chevvy 10L80
  15. Roland@pcmtec

    Hey guys

    No that is a completely different drive train, I believe it is from a euro vehicle.
  16. Let us know once you purchase the workshop edition and we can offer you more support. There is only a single analog input. Multi tune requires the factory dash and cruise control system.
  17. You would need to do something like the following discussion here. Use Circuit 3 with the "high low" triggered from the nitrous circuit and a relay.
  18. Using partial write BF/FG is 6-15 seconds. BA is 20-40 seconds from memory.
  19. Ok as long as you have a tuner that has done that kind of job before. It is not straight forward and I would budget several days to a week of tuning labour to do it properly with an acceptable result. Drive by wire has been disabled by a few people, but they have not publicised how they did it. Drive by wire is better in all regards and can move faster than you can move your foot, so I recommend leaving that in place. Regarding the cluster it is 100% can bus only. Speak to CANBarra, they make a module which can output the canbus signals to other dashes, if your dash is not canbus then you'll have to run a GPS speedo and cable separately. The BA might have the option of an analog speedo output but I can't remember.
  20. Not really a straight forward question. Might be best off taking this one to a workshop who has done jobs like this before, otherwise you risk doing everything twice. Retuning the speed density to suit a completely different motor will take up quite a lot of the tuners time as well, so that will get expensive as most barra tuners don't have experience doing full speed density recalcs.
  21. One way to find out. Also make sure you wire them in parallel, if you wire in series it will drop the current through the injector you are piggy backing off due to increased resistance. A better way would be to run a water meth pump off the IMRC runner output which can be setup to turn on/off at a rpm and map pressure setpoint.
  22. The numbers for auF3177 for reference are as follows. This is only for the BTR I believe. 1 OSS or TCSS used 2 OSS to ECM over CAN 3 VSS hardware. 4 ABS through hard wire. 5 ABS over CAN.
  23. Enable the VID block and use the speed source drop down in the VID Block section, auF3177 is not what you want in most cases. If this is a BA/BF you can select output shaft sensor and wire in a hall effect sensor for speed. FG does not have a speed input and can only have speed via canbus from either the ABS module or a ZF Transmission. If its an FG you can speak to CANBarra who make a module which should be able to emulate the speed. https://www.facebook.com/CANBarra/
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