Roland@pcmtec

Have you read this thread? https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/15-howto-boost-control-babf/ Your desired boost is set to 20 inHG which is about 9psi. I haven't looked at your PID settings but I'm going to guess its just in permanent overboost hence 0% duty cycle. Have a read of the boost thread and set it up as per those settings. Datalog will tell the full story.

Is this a stock/factory car? If not has someone messed with the actuator etc? What spring is being used? Has it been tuned before you touched it? If so use the compare/history to compare the file to stock and see what has been changed. Was it turbo converted? If so did you use a turbo PCM? Download Forscan and take a screenshot of a DTC read. Also datalog all the wastegate related items during a WOT pull and post that up as well. You should be able to figure out the issue from this.

DLP analog input support is now available in the 1.22 beta on the website.

It is only in Workshop level at this stage as we spent a fair bit of time researching to find and test it.

Check auF12514 and auF10980 Process should be the same as discussed here

Someone was talking earlier about averaging out the PWM signal so I did a simulation. You would first need to step the voltage down to 1.6v using a voltage divider then build an RLC filter. https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/low-pass-filter-a-pwm-signal-into-an-analog-voltage/ Can simulate here https://www.multisim.com/create/ This helps you pick the RLC values http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/RLCtool.php This shows that it would not be optimal. This is with a 50% duty (E50), you have a 7 second lag on startup to get a value that is close to the actual value. Then you have a 200mv ripple, the PCM could possible average this out but it wouldn't be great if you cranked the motor first go, you'd need to turn the ignition on for at least 3-4 seconds. At cold temperatures the frequency drops to 0.2hz so you would have an even worse ripple as well. So you might make it work, but I would not recommend this as a solution. The Innovate converter is a few hundred bucks, this would still cost you $5 in parts and a lot of time testing.

Also if you use the Innovate flex converter you can rescale the output internally, so you don't need a voltage divider, you can just set the output to scale from 0 to 1.6v using LMProgrammer which is included with the Innovate LogWorks package (free to download). https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/logworks.php

None. BA you can wire the 5v signal from the zeitronix/innovate converter straight in as its a 0-5v input.

Not sure if you previously emailed us about this but I'll answer here anyway. Basically you need frequency counter -> analog output voltage converter such as the innovate or zeitronix kit. You then need to step the voltage down to suit the analog input using a voltage divider. BF is 0.1-1.66v FG Mk2 (maybe some late Mk1s as well) are ~0-3.8v You can't just average the frequency output with analog electronics as the sensor varies the frequency based on fuel temperature, then varies the pulse width based on ethanol %. Unless your fuel was a constant temperature it would not provide reliable results. edit: Here are the specs of the sensor 50 Hertz indicates 0% ethanol, and 150 Hertz indicates 100% ethanol. The pulse width indicates the fuel temperature. The normal pulse width is between 1 and 5 milliseconds: 1 millisecond indicates -40°C (-40°F), and 5 milliseconds indicates 125°C (257°F).

The reason sometimes you see cars with poor results from a workshop is the shop is under pressure to get a job done in a few hours on the dyno. If the car has no issues and is using the same injectors and parts they have previously dialled in you can get a great result in a few hours. If you have DIYd half the parts and the shop runs into trouble with faults, or for example you are using injectors they have never tuned before they might spend half the tuning time just dialing them in. Then to get it really nice they really need the car for a week of cold starts and running at least 80-100kms on the car for the long term fuel trims to dial in. Unless it is their R&D car they just wont be able to do this for the budget they have been given. This is why I always recommend using parts the workshop has previously tuned and recommend, even if they may not be the best parts in your eyes, this way you know they have parameter files and base tunes that will get the car 90% of the way there, then they can spend the full dyno budget on really polishing the tune off. Regarding getting another DIYer to tune your car the issue you are going to run into is the hours most guys who self tune their cars are in excess of weeks sometimes. It is not profitable for people to spend that much time on someone else's car and you are unlikely to want to spend that money either. I spent probably the equivalent of 2-3 weeks full time tuning my car to get fuel trims at 0-1% along with perfect cold starts on e85 in 5c. If you have any IT background at all could consider learning yourself. Might set you back a few grand in equipment etc, but if you take the car to 3 or 4 shops you are going to spend this anyway.

Just disable the ghost cam until its warmed up using the oil temperature table. Eg change the oil temp axis and put something like this in:

We have an internal alpha release which has support for 2015-2017 mustang read/write/edit support available. Credit cost is 5 credits to license. If you are interested in alpha testing this release and you have the workshop edition of the software please contact us.

This only works for a manual. If you have an auto you will need the workshop edition and to manually copy over the automatic settings and tables (see steps further down). First read your vehicle and save the file (do not license it). Next go to the stock file wizard and press "create stock file from strategy" and enter in A3VC / HAAT3VC Then press "create and merge" and load the file you saved originally. License the file. If you have previously licensed your other file this step will cost 2 extra credits. Now go to auF12646 and flip the switch, this will invert the oil pressure sender signal as the F6 has a different switch. Now you will have a fully independent F6 strategy in your BA. To take advantage of this calibration it is recommended to add 24 degrees over overlap from 1500 - 3500 rpm, this will help spool the turbo the same way the late model BF and FGs do. auF16503 auF16492 NOTE If the car was previously tuned, you will need to copy the spark and speed density tables over re-scaling them as you go. This is as the BA F6 speed density and spark tables are the same size as the BF not the BA. Hence a compare will not copy the values over. This is very important. Automatic conversion If you have a BTR auto you can compare your file to another BA automatic turbo such as 32YC / HAANFY4 and copy over the relevant automatic settings. Here is an example of some of the parameters you may need to copy. This will need to be carefully tested to ensure the BTR shifts as expected.

Figure out what OSID is the correct one for a 5 speed and compare to that. There are 100s of items that need changing. VID block, axle ratios, axle config words, gear ratios, idle air control etc etc. If you've never done it before and don't have the workshop version your best bet would be to just swap the whole calibration to the correct one that came with the 5 speed.

I just sent you a PM

If you want it to ghost cam with the AC on you need to datalog the TPS and load when the AC kicks in. Then extend those tables to have overlap at those load and TPS setting. If you extend these tables too far the car will stumble and jerk when in carparks so it needs some experimentation.

You need to read the DTC code. It could be an airflow limit, or throttle limit at idle etc. The BA F6 doesn't have the extra cam timing fuel adjustments as it was the first vehicle with VCT. You can still make it work, it just needs a bit more love. You can do what we do here which is essentially a catch for if it starts to stall, it kicks the cams back to normal position very quickly. As you can see, ghost cam idle at 900rpm, then if it drops for any reason to 600 (below idle speed) it will kick the cams back to a normal position very quickly. The stalling sounds like a different issue though. Likely a throttle limp mode etc due to the extra throttle required at idle. I'm sure with some datalogging the problem can be resolved.

I would take it back to the tuner and get them to read the DTC code, that will tell you the problem. Sounds like something is triggering a limp mode.

Value files now available for BF and FG

Something to remember is that the desired boost tables are set to inHG by default and not psi as Ford use imperial units.

Set the following to No Error auF2164 P0136 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) auF1845 P0138 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2) auF1127 P0141 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) If you have a V8 you need to set the Bank 2 Sensor 2 as well. Then to disable the rear o2 logic itself set the following to 1 auF2440 Calibration switch that will disable FAOSC (DISABLE ->1 or ENABLE -> 0 ) If you want to disable the heater output for the rear O2 sensor (eg you have the plug chopped off or some other reason) then you can set the following to 0 for the appropriate sensor auF12158 EGO heater hardware present switch array.

It has 8x 0-5v channels so you can log anything you want with it. There is also a DLP16 cable so you could log individual EGTs and Knock sensors if you really wanted.

11.8-13 with 7psi from a gt42??? Please take it to a tuner before you blow it up.

Just pull 10 degrees out of the 1.4 load cell and above, It'll run like a dog and you'll have high EGT but that should ensure no detonation. Doesn't mean you can't kill the motor if you are leaning it out to 1.0 lambda though. I would highly recommend disconnecting setting the boost controller to 0 gain until you can get a wideband in the tail pipe.

You probably have an air leak. I bet your idle timing is quite low indicating the idle feedback control is fighting an air leak.