finnigan001

It could be a comm port issue. Maybe try plug it in a different usb port and let it power on and install to see if makes a difference. I know sometimes i have to do this for PCMtec to pick it up again. Maybe try a different obd2 software to scan the ecu. Just to see if you get anything out of it. Otherwise maybe well be stuffed

Have you got a genuine tactrix? Drivers definitely installed? Just trying to work out work out where the problem lies.

Yeh definitely possible. You would have to retard the spark to find where the engine is happy on 91. I would go the other way personally. Have a tune on 98 that is super efficient/low boost and have a switch wired for the custom tune that you could flick for high power 98. 98RON has more energy than 91RON and theoretically should give you more mileage for the same amount of fuel. You would need to work out if better mileage works out with the price difference. however coupled with more spark low down(slightly more resistant to knock) for torque and lower boost(less air/less fuel burnt) could be a cool experiment to find out real world results.

Yeah, this is correct. I ask about how close the ZFs are as there may be some difference in torque reduction setttings, ie amount of torque to request, that might be different. But i think you should be ok there.

So from what im understanding is that when shifting up your getting the 'fart' after the revs have reduced? Was the new ZF out of a similar car/pcm strategy? I would look at your torque requestor settings. Transmission torque truncation and Shift torque reduction and see if there is anything weird in there. is the pcm asking for a greater reduction than actually required etc. This might be the chase if you've made some changes previously to help with the old ZF issues.

Would love to if we could have it Take my money

You want to be looking at BLK spark at WOT if you have it. MBT wont be used unless it is lower than the BLK table(great write up in the HOWTOs, worth taking the time to read). Boost control looks good and so does trims.

They have the connector that the ID1050 have... But you wont know unless you pull them. I think you can trust that the tuner put 1000cc injectors in it as that's what is in the tune in your injector settings. Cant really fake that and have a running car

Yep that's the one you want I'm using one right now. Straight swap in, no modding. Comes highly recommended. Cool! i would start by logging everything now. And without changing anything try and understand how and where stuff ur logging reflects in the tune. The first thing i would do however, would be to return your fuel base table to stock and to tune the slopes in the fuel injector settings. Heaps of info in the HOW-TOs here. But baby setups. Read and learn as much as you can before you get stuck right in. You don't want to hurt anything. Always keep an eye on those AFRs!!

Didn't look stock to me. Unless i was looking at the wrong table. 0.8DC to 3500rpm then 0.5 to 4750rpm Still strange nonetheless...

I saw they have you a hard time over at xr6turbo. This forum is a little more helpful on the tuning side of things. Yes in a perfect world everyone would have dynos and pay tuners for every little change you make to your car. But some of us like to learn and share our knowledge. Not enough of it on the ford side of things. So I hope those guys, although being helpful, don’t discourage you from learning more or looking at ur tune in more depth. People here will generally point you in the right direction with some good info and a little less of the ‘leave it to ur tuner’ etc. In specific to your tune: your injectors weren’t ‘dialed in’ meaning your high and low slopes weren’t adjusted for your specific injectors. The data however is what would have been provided for you type of injectors. Your base fuel map is how ur fuel has been enriched as your can see from the super rich lambda in the bottom rows. I don’t think anything is wrong with doing it this way just how this particular tuner goes about it and would be faster for them to setup using a dyno to load the cells at specific rpm and throttle. It seems your boost is tuned in open loop. Which means ur desired boost table above doesn’t really do or mean anything. The table that will be controlling ur boost is wastegate D/C rpm to temp table. 0 is open gate. 1 is close gate. Where you see boost falling of in the higher rpms you can see the values in this table drop from 0.5 to 0.1. If you were to experiment a little you could start there. Your spark table looks fine and uses adders and substractors to calculate final spark. So the 12 degrees in your final row won’t necessarily be what you get at whatever boost you are running. I think this is more or less the point jet was making. There are plenty of posts on this forum to understand how the pcm calculates all this. It’s not black magic ? I would like to know what wastegate you have install if you know. Spring pressure and brand if you know. And also what boost your running. Just to understand the tune a bit better. Looks like boost would come on super hard. Not that that’s a bad thing

So looking at ur tune there isn't much i would be worried about. It isn't unusual for a tune to have the boost come off up top to as you say to help the box on gear change. But also to avoid boost spiking on gear change. I would see what AFRs are like at WOT as there are some super rich values at the top end. However this maybe just how the tuner dialed in your injectors to get fueling to how they wanted it. 390kw for the gtx3582 on 98 is pretty much on point. If there was more power in it worth having the tuner would have done it. They may have tried and seen that the returns weren't worth the extra cylinder pressures and heat produced causing knock events. Are you having any actual issues or noticing anything you want to tune out in particular? Or just curious about the boost?

Got a few questions to make sense of the above. Is that the tune you read off the car? I'm guessing you've changed the units from inhg to psi? Does ur wideband AFR match you base fuel table? Do you mind uploading your tune for us to look at? If you do change the desired boost table, you will have to change the wastegate duty cycle table to match. Otherwise, depending on the rest of the tune values ur car might have over or underboost conditions. Welcome aboard

Hmmmm, interesting. I might have a play with the sprint values too. See if i can deduce anything from experimenting. Anyone else had any experience change these tables? Whether it be good or bad.

Yeah I've often wondered about this. i understand that being pegged at the higher loads is fine for us when we are over the torque set in there. But what about if the car is making significant torque below this? say at loads 0.8-1.7 as its getting up to full boost. Will the car be limiting the output, ETC position in relation to driver demand etc? I have turned off a lot of traction control and ETC reductions in the hope of avoiding this problem, if its a problem. Just curious.

k nevermind... i got curious and found another hptuners link. For those also interested: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?66263-Whats-the-torque-inverse-calculation http://www.masterenginetuner.com/2015-mustang-torque-maps-p1.html

Hey Richard, Found these awhile ago while reading into it https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?69427-Torque-Table-Inverse-Calculator Also interested in why you're needing to change them. i.e. is there an issue you're trying to fix or just want to match them for your motor off a dyno sheet etc. I'm not entirely 100% on what these are used for. Throttle, torque events, transmission, all of the above? if you could shed any light on the subject, i'm sure i'm not the only one interested.

Hey Rolls, Yeah i thought i had it setup properly but was still getting the cut. In TMAPControl "TMAP Configuration" its set to switch to boost sensor after TMAP_Volts auf100000 "Voltage to switch over" is 4.15 So maybe there is something not right with my original CustomOS or i'm missing another value somewhere to change(this is more likely ) Cheers

This was it! Crazy. I wonder how the guys using HPtuners get around this because as far as i could tell there isn't away to change those values. This seems to be my boost cut issues in various incarnations of my car as well! Thanks once again

So doing a little more trawling. I found the link below which is exactly the issue. Everyone seems to be able to run higher. https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/83691-fg-map-sensor-is-it-1-bar-if-so-what-happens-if-you-go-over-1-bar/?tab=comments#comment-1352787 Is there something else at play here i'm missing. I notice there is a TMAPControl in the customOS and is set to TMAP switch to boost sensor after TMAP_Volts. I'm confused here. Thought the TMAP was the boost sensor?? Maybe there is some other setting i'm supposed to shut off? Cheers guys

Feeling like a bit of noob here but having an issue with my car. Trying to pin point it. I've narrowed it to either torque requestors or MAP sensor. Having an issue that when i try target boost over 17psi or boost goes over 17-18psi i get what feels like a boost cut. So originally i thought is was over boost but i disabled that. I've gone through most the traction control settings turning them off one by one. Nothings has any effect so im thinking MAP sensor. If i peg it 16psi i haven't really noticed the 'boost cut'. Which leads me back to MAP sensor. I think i've read somewhere at some stage the 2 bar MAP is 14psi vacuum and the rest boost which would make sense. Would going over this cause the affect above. A sort of boost cut? Funny thing is i've never read about anyone changing there MAPs for running 20-23psi on E85. HALP ?

Will the 1.21 beta still contain the datalogger? ?

That would be awesome. Can’t wait to try it out.

https://www.facebook.com/PCMTEC/posts/1161251397411669 Just seen the above on facebook and xr6turbo. Excellent work guys. Just cant believe how much work you've put into these cars. We are all better off for it. I seen you've said you are releasing to workshops first until processes are locked down. Are we looking at months away for the rest of us with the workshop version?

Been an interesting series. More options for us wanting to tune/setup SOHC 4lts... I have quite a few laying around