Roland@pcmtec

I'm not really sure what you mean to be honest, what is the alternative?

The PCM assumes cams are installed with no overlap. Completely agree that it would be much simpler if cam grinders made all barra cams with 0 overlap and let the pcm do its job. Would halve the tuning time required. Overlap table is exactly that. It takes the intake cam position then adds the overlap angle to it to make it open sooner. Intake cam angle timing is simply +- top dead centre, so positive is retard, negative is advance.

Oh right, you've done a full FGX conversion. Why not just buy an FGX? 😆 Anyway yes those are Mk2 configurations however you need the exact config for that car. The workshop edition has a full strategy list of all ~900 calibrations, from that list you can figure out which diff ratio/gearbox is suitable. Otherwise the simplest method is assuming all the parts came from the same donor car (I hope so or you are in for a world of pain) is to simply use the calibration from that car as well (check the door tag). Have to remember that ALL modules must match and be from the exact same car for your swap to be successful eg ABS, Cluster, PCM and TCM. Even the cluster is different between a manual and auto, if any of that is wrong/mismatched you will have issues, most will let you start and drive the car, but your dash will be a christmas tree. If you have no idea what the donor car was or all the bits are from different cars then its unlikely you will solve this without burning credits randomly trying operating systems only to find that you have a manual cluster in an auto, or a non turbo ABS module etc. In that case I would recommend you pay to get someone like @Whiteford to sort you out.

How have you flashed HAER1UB if you haven't licensed it? I doubt either file will work if you have a MK1. Mk2 is very very different in terms of canbus design.

Follow this guide to rescale the axis easily.

If you also have an FG with the same head and intake then yes it would be more accurate.

They are all different and will provide their own voltage lookup.

Yes I believe that is what they do. It is done at SAE conditions then they have coolant, lambda and intake temp modifiers multiplied on top. MBT will be slightly higher with ethanol as it has a slower flame speed, however the stock MBT is a great gauge to use. Something to be aware of is as soon as you change the turbocharger you change the backpressure and hence you change the MBT for the entire load scale making the factory calculation a guide at best. Because of this you can't simply chop and change between a sprint cal (with a GT3582) and a standard FG XR6T with a GT3576 Ultimately unless you have a dyno load cell and set up real time tuning you won't be recalculating MBT any time soon. So your best bet is to leave the stock MBT, work out your MBT at your max load row, then interpolate between the factory max load and your new max load. Because you are doing this on your actual real fuel, you are effectively making your MBT and borderline knock tables equal which is what you see in most aftermarket tunes. To do the spark tune properly like Ford do would take you thousands of litres of fuel and weeks of dyno time. Also have a read of this if you haven't already Also regarding rescaling load axis use this tool

Fairly sure his has 3 voltage levels to indicate purge etc. So if you wire that into the flex fuel system input you can do it that way.

Put any questions in here and tag @Matt

There are some improvements coming with the search as there appears to be an issue with searching for items that are 100% capitals.

It was asked how to log torque. There is the actual torque value, the targetted torque (if undergoing torque reduction) and the 14 individual torque channels. TQ_ACT -> Torque Actual TQ_TARGET -> Targeted Torque (eg reduction) TQ_LIM_x -> Torque Reduction Level (there are 14 of these that map to the torque requestors)

TP_VOLTAGE

Have you tried searching for TP in the datalogger?

This actually was disabled/removed as people were doing it accidentally causing them a lot of grief. The easiest way now is to press shift, then click the top and bottom of the items you want to delete. Right click and press "Scalar Delete". You can also use the control key if you want to delete just one or two items from different parts of the list.

This would require the workshop edition. Then follow these two guides to setup the dual tune toggle from the external input.

I don't see any issues? Depending on what kind of LPG system you have you would need to manually switch this on/off though. Alternatively wire in a relay to the dual tune trigger which is triggered off the LPG switch here. @Darryl@pcmtec has done this in his Territory.

Yeah it is like the BMW ZF vs the Falcon ZF. Same box but no similarities in software at all. Same with the Mustang 10R80 vs the Chevvy 10L80

No that is a completely different drive train, I believe it is from a euro vehicle.

Let us know once you purchase the workshop edition and we can offer you more support. There is only a single analog input. Multi tune requires the factory dash and cruise control system.

You would need to do something like the following discussion here. Use Circuit 3 with the "high low" triggered from the nitrous circuit and a relay.

Using partial write BF/FG is 6-15 seconds. BA is 20-40 seconds from memory.

Ok as long as you have a tuner that has done that kind of job before. It is not straight forward and I would budget several days to a week of tuning labour to do it properly with an acceptable result. Drive by wire has been disabled by a few people, but they have not publicised how they did it. Drive by wire is better in all regards and can move faster than you can move your foot, so I recommend leaving that in place. Regarding the cluster it is 100% can bus only. Speak to CANBarra, they make a module which can output the canbus signals to other dashes, if your dash is not canbus then you'll have to run a GPS speedo and cable separately. The BA might have the option of an analog speedo output but I can't remember.

Not really a straight forward question. Might be best off taking this one to a workshop who has done jobs like this before, otherwise you risk doing everything twice. Retuning the speed density to suit a completely different motor will take up quite a lot of the tuners time as well, so that will get expensive as most barra tuners don't have experience doing full speed density recalcs.