Roland@pcmtec

Just drop the duty cycle to 0% during a shift, that will stop it spiking.

Updated the guide to cover the new wizard that is available in the beta.

0x623 byte0 engine capacity in litres x 10 byte1 engine code (some hard coded number for the engine type) (maybe auF2531?) byte2 auF2552 byte3 NA/Turbo etc byte4 TCM Calibration level auF1692 0x640 byte0 axle type eg FWD/RWD/AWD auF2193 byte1&2 = axle ratio as a float converted to a short (16bit) scaled between 0x333 to 0xFFAD Byte3&4 = same as above but the VID axle ratio instead I believe scaled in the same range Byte5 = Torque split (AWD vehicles) to front axle. I believe this changes for AWD vehicles Byte6 = some bit field for number of gears and car model Byte7 = null 0x650 byte0 CAN ID byte1 = byte0 of msg 623 rest of this looks the same as msg 623 just offset by one byte

So set the limits out of range. Eg make the underboost threshold very low. Why don't you want to use it? It helps spool the turbo at part throttle much faster. You can just change the underboost duty cycle. There is a scalar which will have 1 in it, change it to 0.6 for 60% duty when in underboost if you want.

Extra spark retard will cause a boost spike. The FGs have a wastegate adder for spark retard to pull back the duty cycle. This will stop a boost spike, someone else on here commented in a thread about it.

I believe Ford didn't trust it either. From what I can see no turbo car has it enabled by default.

It works under all scenarios so you can use it for rolling anti lag or an overboost/scramble button. Maxx put a video up showing how it works as rolling anti lag. I use it in my car as well and it is amazingly good fun. You can load up the car at 2000rpm in 4th and get full boost. Let the button go and it is like a sling shot. Great fun! Live high low boost switching we will have soon via some combination of holding the cruise buttons down all at once without requiring the car to be off. You can also wire in a rotary dial into the rear o2 sensor and couple this with the multi tune for variable boost on the run. This would then interpolate between the 98 and e85 maps which you could set up to only have boost tables in giving you variable boost. edit: Live tune changing with the engine running is now possible. This means boost/ghost cam etc can be toggled at any time.

We have the flash only package which works on a windows tablet (can be bought for $100 online), I keep one of these in my car for just in case occasions where my laptop is not available. The main issue with Android is the J2534 cables we use have no android support. Unlike BMWs etc the Ford requirs 18v on OBD pin 13 during flashing, no cheap cable can do this as it requires a DC-DC converter internally. Hence you cannot use the cheap cables that other Android flashing cables use. if you want to use a tablet you can follow the guide below to make files for others users. Otherwise you can simply download the flash only package for yourself via the website. Finally the other reason we don't plan to do any phone based flashing is the Multi Tune via the cruise control buttons effectively covers all our use cases.

They actually do have a fairly aggressive cold start idle from the factory already. But to answer your question the car uses the following maps for idle timing when cold. You can put anything you want in there. They will usually use about -5 degrees but you could go much more retarded to warm the car up faster if you want. Regarding idle speed you can simply increase one of these tables to increase the cold start idle speed. ECT is probably the best one to use as that way it will only do it when cold.

I actually haven't logged that to be 100% that it does make it richer, but it is my belief from everything I looked at (and the backfires) that it does. Because of the misfiring (due to fuel cut) you can't rely on the wideband to tell the true story. It certainly can't be less safe than the other number though.

Sounds like you answered your own question! Underboost will give you 100% duty, overboost will give you 0% duty. I bet your underboost threshold is higher than your overboost threshold so there is no actual zone in the middle where open loop occurs. Boost error = desired boost - actual boost. So log your boost error vs your desired boost then compare it to the two thresholds and the problem should be fairly obvious then. I'm 99% sure this will be your problem.

We only ever heard of one failure before and I suspect it was a high voltage power supply killing it (I think it was about 20v and had FEPS left powered on over a weekend which is not exactly normal use). Tactrix themselves said they had never seen it before.

Got another car you can try it on?

Test it with Forscan then. https://forscan.org/

They already have this functionality built in from the factory. Search for "octane" in the software and you can find all the knock thresholds to switch on/off the octane adder tables. This is one of them. Or you can go down the multi tune route, then you can do two completely different tunes.

Do a compare of the old strategy to new, its possible it was out of a vehicle with a different diff ratio. Compare will show everything. You can try different TCM calibrations for free (you get 2.5*PCM license count TCM licenses included) Just make sure the TCM OSID, diff ratio and calibration level match (make sure ZF03987 and auF1692 are the same number).

If you have swapped all modules/engine/trans the easiest way is to find another calibration from the same vehicle that is turbo and use that using the merge wizard. If you have made a frankenstein eg an NA engine with turbo running gear and NA trans/abs module then do a compare and copy over only the turbo related settings. This is the only way to do it if you haven't done a full swap of everything. Either way will work, depending on how much you have swapped over one method will be quicker than the other. Also note if you don't have the workshop version, you won't be able to see all the scalars/tables, so a "Copy all" won't actually copy everything. You can use the merge wizard to copy the entire calibration section though, this effectively does the same thing. You can only do this if the operating system ID is the same though.

Is it a big HP build? Some tuners cut the OBD2 wires back in the day before they could tuner lock cars. Where did you buy the cable from and how much was it? It should be about the $250-300 mark. Fake OpenPorts are usually under $100 and most are DOA or fail within a few weeks.

Yes you can make it work. You need the professional version. There is more to it than just enabling the auto switch. You need to match the calibration which is usually easier to do by just loading in the correct strategy from the start.

I will send you the latest beta.

Launch control will work regardless of load, we re-use the same system for flatshifting which is at WOT. The enable command for it is > rpm setpoint, clutch in, speed below speed setpoint and if you are running a custom OS we add tps > tps setpoint. I would check your speed setpoint.

I'm not sure why you would want to do this? That is one of the main benefits of an auto, no boost lost on gear shift.

We have found that the IMRC runner for instance which has no pin in the PCM is still connected internally, so if you re-pin the plug you can use it. I would have thought the clutch input was the same, but it is possible its simply not wired up internally, this is strange though as there have been many FG manual conversions done without issue. It may just be some operating systems/PCM part numbers that do not work. Can you guys post up the PCM part number and OSID you have tried and whether it works or not? This might help us track down which PCMs this can be done on. It is possible that the tuners who did the conversion simply did not notice the lack of clutch input on idle/driving quality, or they swapped the PCM as well and hence did not run into this issue. Brett Hogno at Custom Machine Works does lots of standalone PCMs. He might be able to offer some advice or build you a loom/pcm combination that does indeed have a working clutch input. He has a test engine on a stand so he tests everything before he sends it out. https://www.facebook.com/Custom-Machine-Works-856789001022313/ As an alternative, you could achieve a similar result using the custom operating system and the flex input via the rear O2 sensor to trigger a launch mode. Or (a bit more expensive) set up the full multi tune system and wire up the cruise control buttons.

So just switch it around to suit then? It is a simple digital input, put a relay on it if you can't wire it up as per factory.

Can you give us a log of the timing at idle? It might be clipping the desired idle setpoint. Try changing auF10759 and auF10840