Roland@pcmtec

A few people have asked what to use for knock detection. Whilst the factory system works ok for a factory car on factory boost levels, it will often miss real knock and it will also detect false knock. Some recommendations below Plex https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor/ Knock Box http://theknockbox.com.au/ Link G4 Knock block http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock If you are poor and handy electrically you can always do the old school method of a microphone wrapped in foam inside a metal tube screwed onto something on the block, then hook this up to an amplifier (low pass filter recommended) and noise cancelling head phones.

It is dependent on too many things. Start small and experiment.

Sounds like it is misfiring. How much overlap is that?

Definitely recommend setting the idle rpm higher and also more airflow at idle. If you raise the airflow to get the idle timing lower (eg 5 degrees ish) then you have more timing reserve to catch the fall. If you are already idling at 20 degrees the PCM can't respond quick enough to catch it. Timing cause the idle to jump almost immediately, more idle air has a small lag delay and can oscillate. I also recommend leaving the oil temp table fairly standard, that way when the car is cold it won't have the lumpy idle.

DFCO enabled means no fuel so it will be the maximum engine braking possible. When DFCO has not kicked in less timing will cause more engine braking as less timing means less torque. You can also try playing with cam timing (more vacuum means more friction) and reducing dashpot airflow will also increase vacuum. Experiment and see.

The only thing that affects the fueling at steady state when warm is offset, low slope and high slope. There are no other settings you are missing except for digital pump shot, however this is only for transient conditions. Assuming you spend 8 hours on this and you value your time at more than $0 an hour, it would be cheaper to buy and install new injectors than to spend time trying to dial the dekka 60s in. edit: The only other thing that could cause you issues is a mechanical problem, eg you have a big fuel pump with a restrictive return/regulator, if your base fuel pressure is fluctuating it will be impossible to dial the injectors in correctly.

Short answer is yes you should be able to configure all of those items. Long answer is there are lots of different parameters to change. I would start by comparing a late model Turbo BA to a stock auto NA BA and see what Ford did from the factory. Then start by changing one thing at a time, make notes of what you changed and what the results were and keep iterating until you get the result you want. Make sure you only change one thing at a time, otherwise you can go in circles. Check the common strategy thread for a list of strategies you can try.

Have you tried using the manual launch control? That should do what you are asking.

What have you tried changing so far and what are your results?

Most likely mid to late next year

When we add Mustang support this will be a logical progression.

We have a new employee who will be working on adding nice to have features into the editor. Their first task will be to build a unit converter. Currently we have the following conversions they will be adding. Please let us know any others you'd like. Mass Flow lb/s lb/min lb/hr g/s g/min g/hour Temperature °F °C Time Hour Min Sec ms us Pressure kpag kpa in/hg psi Speed/Gear/Tyre Wizard ZF OSS/RPM/KPH Wizard kph mph rpm/oss to kph/mph (will suck the ratios out of your tune file) Torque/Power nm lb/ft Volume Cubic Inch Cubic Litre

Too busy getting the major update for Custom OS/Tuner lock etc all completed. Datalogging will come out after that is done. We already have working datalogging but we won't release it to the public until it is more polished, otherwise we will be inundated with support requests for items we already know are not finished/working. We will post in here as soon as it is ready.

You can do whatever you want there. There is no real reason to use one over the other, typically other software did not map the VID block so historically a lot of tuners turned it off. The only benefit of disabling the VID is you can set the speed limit higher than 250kph which is useful for dyno tuning.

The max is 255. If you are going faster than 255kph disable the vid block and use the calibration override. That can go as high as you want.

Change the variable that says "speed limit kph"

It has been reported that to unlock an ecolpi you have to entirely remove the key from the barrel during the ignition cycle process. We believe this is due to the LPG purge system keeping the PCM active. As as "Ready to start" disappears from the dash it will be counted as an ignition cycle and the processor will unlock. If anyone has an ecolpi they are tuning and find otherwise please let us know.

It depends when it was done. The first couple that were done by hand yes we recommend you make a new one and copy your differences over. This will re use the existing license. If you don't the file will still work you just won't see the new dropdown menus. Otherwise all of the later ones that were done by hand will open up with all of these new options available. If in doubt send us the file and we can confirm for you.

FYI here are the new Custom OS options that will be available in 0.75 (not far away!) The Custom OS can be enabled via this item (currently disabled in 0.74). Enabling the custom OS automatically adds the dual maps (for flex or for other use) which will do nothing by default. You can thank Darryl for working very hard on getting this into the editor the past month and a bit!

Correct. Providing the VID block is enabled, if its not enabled then you need to configure the "VIDBlock Calibration Overrides" value instead.

The best way is to just measure everything and put the values in. Note that the Mk2 FG doesn't use the VID block so any changes you make there will be ignored, they need the cluster to be reprogrammed with IDS. Edit: Instead of measuring you can simply measure the speed error with a GPS speedo, divide the speed measured by the speed actual and use that to multiply the rolling diameter.

I'm not 100% how these tables work however I believe it is spark retard vs knock energy.

That one you posted is the tip in spark retard. Eg if you stab the throttle it won't immediately go to full spark. It also makes the torque change less violent on a large throttle change. There is max knock retard and a knock retard recovery table. I will post them up shortly.

Here is a snippet of a response sent to someone enquiring about issues with their vehicle. The vehicle was an NA with unknown injectors and large camshafts, the user reported various drivability issues. The response covers why installing known injectors is a must and also why you should only install camshafts that a workshop has recommended or previously tuned. If not you are expecting the tuner to do weeks of work in a few hours, the result is the cars drivability will suffer.

Decreased.