Puffwagon

FBI is tracking you

It should read whatever the alternator is putting out. With a flat battery you should see over 14V and a charged battery you'll see over 13.5V most of the time. Yours went from a high voltage to a low voltage which tells us that the alternator is likely stuffed. You can check if the alternator is charging with a multimeter by touching the positive terminal on the back of the alternator and the negative to earth. By all means recharge the battery, it needs it, but I would still look into the alternator. Once the battery is charged, it should hold 13.4V minimum no load to be satisfactory. This will need to be checked with a multimeter across the battery terminals with the negative terminal disconnected. You can also head to a workshop and get them to chuck a battery tester on it. It'll cost frig all and will give you an indication of the condition of the battery.

Nothing really sticks out, although it looks like your alternator is stuffed and possibly the battery will be too. You can see the battery voltage drop from 13.07V down to 11.25V across the range of the log. Look into this, rectify it, then continue with the diagnosing.

Have you tried recovery mode?

I went back and reviewed my post on the xr6 turbo forum. I had disabled it in the vid block and raised it in the tune and it didn't work. Perhaps I didn't turn the vid block off, it was too long ago to remember.

The territory has a lower speed limit than that, 210kph, and you'll run into issues with the speed cut when raising the rev limit and running it up in 4th gear.

It's not hitting boost cut otherwise you'd see the torque source change. Make sure rpm, cam error and boost pressure are logged so we can get a better idea of what's happening.

For anyone that hasn't looked at the log, it has cam timing that doesn't move, torque source is constantly driver demand and the most amount of boost it saw was only 1psi.

Hardware changes can throw out a tune to the point of it being not drivable. If you only want to get it on the trailer, just add 10 to each of the slopes and try again.

This will get you driving

Look at "fuel cranking lambda (ect)" for cranking fuel. There is another table that has a timer for the fuel coming in, but be farked if I can remember what is called or can find it in the editor. The closest thing I found just now is called "startup open loop enleanment table for exhaust warm up".

It's the smallest diameter clutch set by a mile, no wonder they are usually the first to go. Have a look on the beefcake website for upgrades. You'll be looking for 6r80 parts, not zf.

Rwd is much more forgiving than awd. You'll be spinning the tyres and lowering the load on the trans, so it'll be much happier than mine was at that power level.

All those wot shift hits on the input shaft, along with the power required to run a 9, will eventually snap it. They twist a considerable amount before breaking and will break from outright power, even with no wot shifts.

Dunno man, you could probably run a 9 a few dozen times before it broke or fried the clutches.

It's always torque that kills everything, if we can manage the torque vs time, hard and soft parts should be fine. #torquemoduleoff

A stock box can still bang into gear with stock shift pressures. It's torque reduction or lack thereof that makes them bang into gear.

Pretty sure you can get a dlp20 and that would take care of it. I'd like to stick with the stock pcm for now cos I've sunk all the credits into it. The only thing it really lacks is a proper failsafe system for mega power builds. If I can get an engine off with an oil pressure loss and a throttle closure with fuel pressure loss or a lean out then I'd be happier. Could be another project hey. Gotta pull my finger out for the current one first lol

Yeah I understand that the issue is in the pcm, surely it can be recoded to read 6 gears tho. There can't be that many variables it uses. Probably not worth it to make it happen tho. Haha it made 1500nm last time and will be getting another few hundred soon. I wonder if 5th and 6th gear can handle all the power tho? I reckon it can, just have to have the box tuned for it. It's just the massive heat and sustained load that scares me. I need some egt's wired into my dlp8 lol

It does make sense, thanks for the explanation. I figured it worked like that but haven't played with it much, except to have all the boost, all the time. I had actually thought about turning gears 5 and 6 down, as there will be a load of load and heat generated to get the car to those gears under wot. Also it'll take some load off the trans. I think my tc strategy will be mostly unlocked to take advantage of the high stall converter. My turbo is a big one and cams are hectic, so full boost doesn't happen until around 4k in 3rd and 4th. I've got a 4 port boost solenoid, so might just run it in open loop for a while until I can get a handle on what it needs. Just thinking out aloud here, if the converter code can discern between the later gears, surely there is something there that can be related to the boost by gear code.

Hey maybe a dumb question, is the boost by gear setup only using open loop boost control or do you fill in the desired boost table as you would with normal closed loop control?

It does have 0's in the desired boost map. Up it to a couple of psi more than you want to run and leave it there.

You'll see it in the log if it's not working properly. Another reason to get out there and get a log from low rpm/boost up to high rpm/boost. You did mention a total loss of power and a miss in your first post. Apart from tune related issues, this is a symptom of bad valve springs.

Something I saw in the tune, you've got more timing where it comes on boost than after peak torque. This is back to front. You want less timing where the boost hits and gradually increase it out the back. You'll usually get 2 to 3 more degrees of timing by the end of a pull when you're on 98 octane fuel. You can verify what the timing is doing when you get a decent run in and logged. Perhaps the wall you are feeling is it coming on strong, then falling over due to the timing being too low. If you do increase it, be safe and make sure it isn't knocking. Another thing to think about is valve springs. If they are soft then it won't be happy after about 10 to 12psi. You can try doing a run with gate pressure to see if it helps. It'll give you an indication about the condition of the springs.

You need to log it before you rule it out. Add in cam error and rpm before you log it again.