Puffwagon

Haha you learn something new every day. I only learnt that fridge seals have a magnet in them a couple of weeks ago when I fixed my fridge. 42 years young here 😉

Haha I thought it might have been that.

* means multiply, / means divide, - means minus, + means add, = means equals. The arrow thing can get in the bin, you could just as well put the phrase "Offset = 1.36" on the next line and not use the arrow. To calculate the offset from this equation you do this. 4.75 * 24.8206 = 117.89785 + offset 118.1199 - 117.89785 = offset offset = 0.22205 I didn't go through and check all your maths etc, I just showed you how to do the part you are asking about.

I just posted a larger response to this but the forum decided to log me out and lose the post. The short version is that the desired boost vs temp map is changed and there are ways of working out why the boost is acting differently.

Howdy mate that will be a sick build when it's all done. Yes you want to read the tune before you get modding so you have it as a backup. You will want to have a look at some stock super8 files so you get an idea of the difference between them and the na file. If you cant access them I'll pull my finger out and post up a few. What I would start with is getting a wideband permanently installed so you see what the car does in day to day driving. You may want to have one for each bank for the extra data and safety that provides. You will need a dlp8 to get the afr data into the datalog, there is info on the forum about it. You will need a set of knock ears, they are vital for getting the timing correct on 98 octane. Boosted engines, especially stock ones, break fairly easily when they have detonation. When you get to using E85 a dyno will show you where the tune is showing diminishing returns. You will want a fuel pressure gauge that can feed the data into the datalog. You can see when a pump is running out if you have experience but it's a no brainer to have the data there to see if the pressure is falling off. You'll need to get reading about all the stuff, there's a lot of info that goes into tuning, haha all those mechanical parts do things for reasons and we need to know as much as possible! Anyhow there's that, should give you some idea of what's involved at the start.

I just tried it again and it's not doing it, although I checked it before I made the post the other night. Maybe I'm a complete dumbass and wasn't highlighting the whole table? At any rate, due to me not being able to replicate it, I would advise against doing it. A better thing to do would be to leave 5th and 6th stock and unlock the rest of the table.

Yep that's right. It'll all be 8000 when you initially do it, but if you click off the table and back to it, you'll see that the 5th and 6th gear has partially reverted.

Those 2 pictures literally show you where it is. Open the program and have a look for it, it'll be near the bottom. Also Dave will have already put a tune in the trans, so you shouldn't have to change anything. I don't recommend playing with transmission settings if you don't know what you're doing. To be the ever helpful carnt that I am tho, go to those 2 tables, highlight the whole lot and change it all to 8000. Most of it will stick and a bunch of it in 5th and 6th gear won't change. This will make the converter unlocked all of the time through the first 4 gears and only lock up in 5th and 6th gear while cruising.

Just having a read through stuff today, you pretty much need to know how a transmission is built and operated as well as understand the patents for operation etc to get a firm grasp on what some of the more obscure parameters in a tune represent. I also wonder if some of the acronyms are in German, in which case we're pretty much up the creek without a paddle. I found that searching the acronyms in the navigator came up with some interesting stuff, also search slipping and adaptation for more interesting things. There is a lot of stuff that ties in together, it's like a goddamn rabbit hole once you get started 😅 Sonnax has some good info about the zf and 6r80 as well. Accelerator pedal position = DKI The accelerator pedal gradient = DKIG NIC = neutral idle control CT = turbine, possibly ZF is referring to turbine as CTT in the tune? "CRC shift" is used as a noun in the tune. This might be a shift when the tcc is partially locked or unlocked? "CTT shift" is also used as a noun in the tune. This might be a shift when the tcc is fully locked? Clutch area in cm3 is ZF00207. This might change things when you increase the area of the clutch packs? Anyhow I've had enough of that for today.

Looks to be related to clutch fill control. It appears to be a mode that can be tuned, adapted and switched on and off, based off a quick look at my personal tcm file. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s42154-018-0031-y#Sec11 Also auF12503 seems to point to the actual acronym being cyclic redundancy check. I could be miles off tho 🙃

The more you know... Cream Puff ( also Puff - trade slang ) Very clean, well maintained used car.

No worries

You'll have a back up of the file but yes, flashing the pcm will overwrite the current file. If you want to keep the changes you've made after flashing, you'd have to compare your old file, tick the relevant changes you want to keep, apply them to the new file and reflash that into the pcm. It's easy enough to do and doesn't cost anything.

Yes it can flash the pcm, you would need to licence a new file first so make sure you choose the right one. I don't have a lot of experience with conversions etc so won't recommend a particular strategy. If you have modded the car to the extent of using a different trans, you might want to consider the one car workshop version of the software. Combine that with the custom OS and you'll have a lot of tunability, launch control etc.

See where it says [ACT]- *F? That is the value in the histogram. You can change that when you set up the table trace. You choose the X axis value, the Y axis value and the histogram value. Generally you will choose rpm and some type of load reference for the axis and then populate the histogram with the value you want to see at those points. You can set up the rpm points in the axis to suit yourself or they will auto scale according to the min and max data in the log.

Get onto the support team here https://support.pcmtec.com/home/

You might need to update your .NET version to .NET Framework 4.7.1

You mean you're tuning the speed density right? You've got air charge temp as the histo value. I'm just gonna assume some stuff now and say you want the actual afr as the histo value. This means you will need a dlp8 set up to input the afr into your log, then you need to select it as the histo value once you have the data, aka another log with the afr data in it. It's just as easy to tune the fuel by doing some driving and looking at the afr line in the log.

Dunno, the wall, the floor, next door neighbours shagging in the backyard? Gotta be a bit more specific mate.

Open the PCMTec program, open the strategy in the program, click Read/Write vehicle, where it says Virtual Read/Partial Write change that to Full Read/Write, click Write Flash etc.

A5JD and A5KD are both manual BF F6 strategies

No worries

Block and crank are the same, there are different dipstick locations on various blocks. BF head is a good base as they have a better combustion chamber design for high hp. As far as a girdle goes, you can get away with lots for a while. If you are building an engine it is a no brainer to chuck in a girdle for the extra $1400 or so it cost for parts and machining. It'll keep things stiffer which is always better. ARP mains will be used, line hone is needed, caps machined down to fit girdle etc. I've personally taken a spool I beam rod and Bullet series piston with upgraded pins to 1100hp at the crank with no mods, and then again to 1350hp at the crank with a skirt and crown coating. Same exact pistons used in both cases. Stock oil pump with gears, relief spring and backing plate will do the job. Keep the rpm under 7000 for reliability. 12mm ARP head studs will be fine for this build. You want oversize washers with the studs as the ARP ones are too small. An auto box will not like racing unless it's drag racing or roll racing. You'd be flat out keeping the heat out of it on a circuit when it's making bulk power. I've got a thread over on the xr6turbo forum that shows most of it. It's a long thread but it's a good read and there is tonnes of good info in there, the good and the bad. Finally, I've somewhat recently built an engine for someone that has similar specs to mine but a budget build. It came in at around $12,000.00 for parts and machining. Bolts ons like fuel system, manifolds, turbo etc can all be added to that and budget another $15k. A built zf will be another 10k and then you can expect some tuning and fluid costs along the way for about $1500. There's shafts that need upgrading, diff, brakes etc. I tried to talk my mate out of doing it cos it cost me over 40k for my shenanigans (home built and tuned), he still went ahead and spent 25k on the engine side of things and still is going to spend the 10k on a trans soon. That said, read my thread, do more research and if you've got questions after that, I'll be happy to answer them.

Tip in is there to make things smoother upon throttle application, it is mainly for carpark use. If you go straight from low power tune settings to high power tune settings there will be a noticeable shunt in the car and your body.

Maybe a boosted V8 pcm will work for you. They have desired boost and wgdc overboost adders for the gears. HAFJ1K2 FG2 supercharged V8.tec