Puffwagon

A V8 wont run very well with only 6 injector drivers

Seems like old mate is running a turbo on a na engine. Easy to miss stuff sometimes 🙃

My first post lists what you need to do to a trans, the manual points you in the right direction to make those changes. I did learn something new but it doesn't help with making a 3>4 shift at high load. I'd say that 450 to 500awkw is the limit for a trans to work properly and live longer than a few months. @BeerTurbo Haha the one thing you are asking me is the one new thing I learnt and I had to pay for it lol. More than likely you can't get your trans to shift any better unless it gets upgraded clutches.

I've also heard that the same pressure can be used with the upshift on a built trans. Mine doesn't use that much, it's around 10 bar for the upshift but has 17 bar line pressure in 3rd and 4th. I looked into what the American guys are doing with their 6r80's as they are more or less a zf6, most of them are running those kinds of pressures. There is more to upshifting than just increasing the oncoming clutch tho, I've detailed a few other things I've done in the first post, I know there will be some info in the book for me regarding a few other parameters that I know need adjusting.

I haven't compared an f6x strategy but I'll have a look. Pressure wise this trans already has a lot more in it than a stock f6x and after I get to reading the manual, I think it will get a lot more too. I just didn't want to chuck 17 or 18 bar into it if it wasn't going to do anything or was going to damage it. I had 18 bar line pressure in my stock trans and it held on in gear at over 650awkw for ages so maybe it's the right move? Hopefully I can sort something out, I'm confident I can get it done, if it's possible to do.

Ok well being the impatient person that I am sometimes, I ordered and paid for the zf trans tuning guide. At least I will know that I've done everything I can for old mates trans tune and without sharing specifics, can update this thread on how much the stock awd TT trans can can handle on a shift.

It took me 3 or 4 hours on the dyno, reflashing every bloody parameter to keep the throttle open with no speed input. It would open for a second then close again until I fixed it. Sorry I can't remember what it is but it's just a matter of changing likely things until you find it. I know the torque module was switched off but this wasn't the fix, it did however fix a similar issue with a barra swapped r31 that I tuned. Unfortunately I was tuning for a workshop at the time so I don't have the file on hand, and as soon as I got it to work I was pulled off the job and the car was sent on it's way, literally the very minute I got it to work lol. Iirc I only got the throttle to open to 650ish ad so there must have been more to change still.

Hey guys, I know when they break from outright power, the input shaft lets go around 700awkw. Stock clutches can barely hang on when rolling into it while in gear at that power level. What I'm after is the power level that they stop being able to shift at. My own stock trans stopped shifting properly at about 520awkw but I've learnt a bit more about trans tuning since then. Perhaps there's more I can learn and perhaps they can actually be made to shift at a higher power level? I've got a guys awd territory here that is making about 550awkw and despite some pretty hectic numbers in the tune it is not very happy to shift through the gears. It will shift but the 3>4 shift is a bit slow. I have raised shift and line pressures, cut shift times, changed the amount of torque reduction on shifts, unlocked the converter, juggled the type of torque reduction and it will shift at WOT but it isn't particularly happy to do so. While I do want to buy the zf6 trans manual at some stage, I also have had a timing chain tensioner failure with my own car which needs fixing. As is the way, I would have to choose one over the other so it leads me to asking the question. I would just buy the zf training manual and perhaps find my answers there but I don't want to buy it now just to find out that there's nothing I can do to improve this guys trans. I do want to buy it sometime however, but I also have my own car to fix and that is fairly high on the list. For reference my own awd territory makes 766awkw with a built box, and with the same style and level of tuning, I have that shifting through the gears no worries. I guess what I'm asking is, am I pushing shit uphill at this power level with a stock trans?!

Also there was a mob that would do something to the pcm to let it work without vss but again I can't remember who it was. No doubt someone will know tho.

I did it once with fg turbo running gear in a patrol... but I can't remember what I did. What's the strategy, I'll have a look and see if I can find something to trigger my memory.

All good, hope it does some good!

The post didn't update after the edit, I'd only recommend a 0.1 change due to the low numbers in the stock tune. This is for the public's info, I've already spoken with marto47 😉

Try adding 0.25 or 0.5 to the idle airflow in drive table, up to 700rpm or so.

Heaps of people can do that here, but who's going to attach their name to a car that might pop the engine due to lack of a proper tune? Take it in for a tune, it won't cost much more anyway.

Here's a rolling antilag video, as you can see I started it very early in the rev range but it still did the trick. Don't worry about the oil light, I didn't have the switch plugged in.

Better to remove it and put the bung in. If you look up how a narrow band O2 sensor is supposed to work, you'll see what's happening in the logs. The stft doesn't exactly mirror the nb signal but it should move around a bit, having it stuck on 1.0 all the time in closed loop then occasionally going to 1.05 and back is not normal stft behaviour. Yep you set it to 0 in the tune, sometimes you have to switch off the mil or dtc error in the tune as well, it's under DTC controls iirc. Pretty sure it used to be in misc, I can confirm it tomorrow. If your taking it to get tuned I wouldn't worry too much about updating the tune, the tuner should go through everything when it's there. If they do see that the O2 sensor is stuffed, they'll be able to get one sorted for you fairly quickly. Apart from that, make sure you have a set of new spark plugs gapped to 0.7mm fitted before you visit, a new fuel filter is a good idea and better yet if you can get new coils into it you'll have all the bases covered. It's always good to have fresh engine oil and filter before a dyno session, you wouldn't want oil older than 5000km in it. You want to give your car the best chance of protection possible, as a dyno is fairly hard on the gear. A full tank of fuel is another pre dyno thing to check off the list. You might be all over it anyway but it can't hurt for me to post the info, it might help someone one day.

For the idle issues, could be that your O2 sensor is on the way out. In the first operating temp log it wasn't working properly, yet in the last drive log it started working properly after a time. It looks like the dump and intake is affecting the trims but not a huge amount. The reason it was stalling or idling low in the first log is because the trims weren't working properly and it was leaning out upon decel. There is no idle data in the log so wont comment upon idle air error, but given the tune is stock and the airflow has been increased it would have too much air for the idle to work optimally. The tune is still showing that it has 2 O2 sensors connected and this usually isn't the case when you change the exhaust. You would remove the rear sensor and change the tune to reflect it. This could be why it's acting weird. At any rate you should remove the rear sensor if it has one or just unplug it and update the tune to reflect this. The car will need a proper tune asap, you've changed the airflow quite a lot with the intake and exhaust, and having a larger turbo with an external gate, yet having stock boost control is far from ideal. You shouldn't drive it for very long without a tune, it won't hurt it off boost but you shouldn't try and boost it. As for the tune being stock but missing parameters, this would be one for @Roland@pcmtec to have a crack at. I haven't seen it before so can't help there. Anyhow there's my thoughts on it all, nothing too bad happening here, but a few issues to investigate and address.

That's reading in inches of mercury. Swap it over to psi and it'll read 7.9psi. From a quick look at the tune the boost will be rising due to the waste gate not working properly, it probably needs porting. Nearly all of the turbo scalars for boost control are set to 0 and the wg map is set to 0, so it'll be running gate pressure plus whatever it cant bypass through the wg. Also your spark axis is up the shit.

Yes it matters. If you lower the stoich value in the tune it adds fuel everywhere, much the same as changing the injector size or changing the fuel pressure. Get reading man, there is no shortcut to understanding everything. https://x-engineer.org/air-fuel-ratio/

The tune looks fine for the most part. The rev limit is a tad high, that's enough to bend rods from over revving. Stock cams are all done by 5500rpm anyway so no point revving it harder than 6500rpm. There are a few things that have been changed in the calibration that I wonder about, not in a bad way, more curious than anything. You've got a little less shift pressure on the 3>4 shift than stock for some reason. The zf shift cut has been set out of range, the revs per mile has been changed a fair bit, the shift torque limits have been very slightly altered, the trans level has been changed, I see it looks like you may have had some AC issues or something, there's other little bits and pieces, it almost seems that some maps have been copied from another tune. At any rate the tune looks pretty good, nothing sticks out as terrible. The log that you posted earlier showed the stoich as 13.0:1 which wasn't in the tune. When you ask for advice about a log or tune, they need to be matching, ie: the log has to come from the tune, otherwise no one can accurately comment on them.

Open the program, scroll to where it says Variable Speed Fan, click scalars.

Bottom left of the program, on the datalog screen, there is a yellow folder that says "load". Click this and you'll see some default layouts for the datalogger. Load the Falcon layout, then manually add injector duty cycle.

You need to get a dlp8 and have your afr in the log. You are logging way too many channels to have a decent update rate. There's quite a few in there that you wouldn't use at all. Use a Falcon template and add injector duty cycle to it, that's most of what you'll need. When you post a log you should post a tune with it for reference.

Can you explain what you were doing to get that log?

Pretty sure this sums it up. You could use a trans controller with PCMTec running the engine etc. https://htg-tuning.com/gcu/