Puffwagon

This is what I've done in hp tuners back in the day. I've used the "cold enrich decay" to add fuel at startup for about 20 seconds. Try 0.1 across the board at zero seconds interpolated down to 0.01 at 20 to 30 seconds. You might want to go through your "fuel base cold" table and add a bunch there too as it is fairly lean when stock. There is a table called "cold enleanment" that appears to counteract the cold base table but I haven't used it. Depending on how cold the weather is and how much ethanol is in the mix you might want to extend the time that it takes to swap from open to closed loop (base fuel enable time). All of that is in the Fuel>Open loop/Base tab. The cranking fuel should be fine as it is very rich anyway. It is in the Fuel>General tab. But yeah I haven't played with it yet in PCMTec so gimme a couple of weeks and I either will or wont have anything else to add regarding e85 cold start.

The way I avoid cold shocking the wb sensor is to not let the sensor heater warm up before I start it. Just get in, let the fuel pump prime for a second and hit the starter. I'm pretty sure I read that in a wb instructional manual.

Aaaayyyyyy. Is it possible to make the vertical scrolling line in the data logger responsive to the cursors at all times instead of after a left click? Also because the line is at the far left or far right after highlighting an area of the log, when you go to click the line to move it, it will move the highlighted area of the log which is annoying. That's all I can think of right now but already I'm liking this software a lot more than hpt, especially the super fast partial write times and the fact that the data logger and tuning navigator are in the same program.

It would appear that it doesn't matter but there are so many tables linked together, that changing one by zeroing it out can affect many others. For this reason I leave it alone and also there is too much stuffing around with the timing map to get the same result. But at then end of the day you're tuning the car, not the pcm. If the car is running right, correct afr and timing and still has the factory fail-safes working how you want them, then however you choose do it is ok. That's my opinion on things anyway.

Relying on the knock sensors will leave you 2 to 3 degrees short. These motors are severely knock limited on 98 octane so it's very easy to find peak power by listening to the engine. Nothing wrong with road tuning, it will get you the same result as a dyno, if you have a set of matrix goggles.

Yeah I dunno why they are so different. You can follow where the engine moves through the map by watching the rpm, load and timing and then you can see how it responds to adding or removing timing down low/off boost. Re your last post, I dunno what's up with the timing table. It looks like it isn't really suited for anything. It's got more timing where it should have less, and less timing where it should have more. Maybe it's set up to run a 100 shot while on e85 🤣

That depends on your mods etc. I would choose whatever map came out of your car to start with as the low and medium load stuff will be where you want it. You also need to consider the corrections for iat, lambda etc and cam timing. As these aren't mentioned with the timing maps you posted you can't just say which one is better. BUT If I had to pick from the 3 maps you've posted I would go with the third one as that is the closest to the actual numbers most people modding a fairly stock vehicle will end up with on 98 octane. To fix the map slightly I'd copy the 1.8 load values and paste them to the 2.4 load values. Then I'd interpolate the vertical cells from 1.6 load to 2.4 load. It'll need some more fiddling but it'd be very close. Before you did that you'd want to log it and see where the timing is and go from there. Then of course you need to log what happens afterwards and have some knock detection gear on hand so you don't hurt the motor. It depends on how much load you've got, but no. A load of 2.4 is roughly 20 to 24psi depending on where in the rev range it is. With the size of the motor and the size of a stock turbo you would want to have a larger timing number below the boost threshold to get it (the vehicle) making more power and moving quicker. If you had a giant turbo then you might decide to change the timing to get it spooling quicker but generally you don't do that. As always, that's just my opinion. With all of that said you need to work this out yourself for the car in question, but it's a starting point.

I just set up my techedge and it was straight forward. 0V = 9 afr and 5V = 19 afr. With the equation, I literally put a 9 and a 19 in the first and second cells respectively in the right column and it was done. It will interpolate between the first 2 vertical cells so there is no need to use the entire column.

Nvm I went outside to take a look and it automatically inserted itself at the top of the channel list. 🙃

Can you insert the dlp log into the vehicle log to view the afr against rpm etc?

I just ordered one of these and the total was $87 with shipping. I chucked a set of screwdrivers in the cart to get the total over $60 and the total came down to $67. Winning!

Yep it sure is! It's a pretty cool feature that's for sure.

I pulled the cruise control button for rolling antilag while decelerating in my zf trans territory turbo.The decel is stock so I think there's half a second of fuel going through before it cuts off. Sorry to the lady riding her bike as I went past, it wasn't very loud while the exhaust wasn't hot but after the drive it backfired very loudly.

Kelford do custom cams for the barra. Crow will do custom cams. Here's another option. I reckon there would be more but there's a couple at least who say they'll do it. You'd just need to work out the specs yourself or talk to them to work out what you need. It wouldn't be too hard to sort out.

Merry Xmas ya bunch of Ford tuners 😘

It is a parameter file for pcmtec. You click "import from parameter file" from the "file" dropdown at the top left of the screen, when you're running the pcmtec program.

That sounds pretty good mate. Looking forward to using it at some stage.

Does this mean you can have multiple (2?) flex maps eg: high boost flex and low boost flex?

Good write up rolls. To play devils advocate, ive seen plenty of people get too caught up with tuning their computer and forget they are tuning an engine and the results show. As i said earlier use the high slope for wot and the low slope for idle and start up. This is all anyone needs to know to in regard to slopes to effectively tune their car, as long as they know what an engine needs and they have a good set of matrix goggles.

Excel is a good starting point, I did a similar thing when I worked out my injector data a few years back. I found that there is some real world difference from excel to when you put the numbers into the tune, and you will more than likely have to move the slopes around slightly to get them spot on for your vehicles setup. There's plenty of info available and people willing to help, so good luck with it!

If it's a bit tricky to understand I can explain it differently so you can understand it.

This does not contradict my comment, and yes I'm 100% sure my comment is correct about how the injector slopes and breakpoint works. Head over to the injector dynamics website and read up for yourself.

The low slope doesn't affect the WOT fuelling and in the most cases won't be in use, other than idle, decel and very low speed cruise. As per the ID diagram, the low slope only pertains to the non linear part of the injector slope that is below the break point. It is the high slope that affects WOT.

That wouldn't work as you'd lose power from venting the compressed air. You'd be trying to stall up the na version of your motor instead of the turbo version. Take a look here mate http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=The-AllElectronic-BlowOff-Valve&A=2188

If I win the lottery next week we'll make it happen...???so I guess it ain't happening ???