BeerTurbo

until you disable DFCO your going to have trouble. I could get small flames with DFCO disabled, negative decel timing and fuel map verry rich in all cells you were trying to blow a flame in. even then it would only do it when the car was verry hot. after i added water meth injection it would just blow a constant flame.

still way way way better than the stock top mount. they would start at 40 sometimes and be over 100 by the time the car changed into 3rd.

I just did a pats reset using Forscan for a Bfmk2. Just needed two keys.

I had to lower btr shift points with a na+exhaust+3.7 gears it would just tag limiter in the shifts. Needed to be lowerd by 100 rpm or so. But the btr take like 700 rpm to actually do a shift....at least the zf is much quicker hahahaha

Thats what i did, im not saying its right. But it worked.

What i did with mine was edit the map 27 i think it was for manual mode..then put in a number..test and see if it hits limiter...then use that number as the max number. I did find the terry with more Power needed some lower number in shift. What worked better was changing limiter type. I found stock limiter would confise it and make it hold gear more. Since std is a throttle cut. I changed to fuel cut only and left it at 6100 or so and it seemed fine

i dont think that's the right way to disable it. that's just telling it to use mode 0, which might actually still include TQ reduction. AUF0264 AND AUF0265 have been where i have had the most success disabling throttle movement on TQ retard. you can see the transmission is requesting tq retard. so you can disable the throttle part using those two scalars. it may still then default to pull spark and or another event such as cylinder cut depending how your other tq events are setup. you need to do as puffy suggesting and find out where in the calibration the limit is and change it. for fun check auf3342. ,max throttle angle

is that a solenoids issue or a clutch packs issue

ive only really put about 150 km on it since i cleared it. i know the other day on the freeway it was doing the 4/5/6th gear hold on me (just switch from D to S back to D and it works it life out) no DTC's at the servo on the way home tonight, so I gave it a hurting the rest of the way home and nothing else came up.

are any of these usefull?

checked codes before the work drive this morning TCM - u0100-ff - lost comunication with the PCM ABS - U2501-20 i ceared them then on the drive did a few spirited hits and nothing came back - but it was still not shifting into 4-5-6 on high load. not going into 4th may be new

Howdy the zf in the terry has started playing up recently. it seems to forget to shift up. i attempted a cold read the other day and pcmtec had a corruption error, but when it was warm the config was read. i returned it mostly to stock and toped up the fluid level as it was a small amount low. it seems to be fine, but as per most cases under load it will forget to shift into 5th. babying it it will go into 5/6th fine. strangely enough if you humming along and it decides to stay in 4th, it will seemingly stay there forever... unless you change shift mode or hit cruse control - then it wakes up and shifts. if there an easy way to data log the solenoids and if they need replacement? i have planned to do the seals and change fluid in the near future. but wandered if there was an easy in car way to check them. also is the cold read corruption anything to worry about, i have a spare mechatronic i can use if that's an issue. cheers

Hey Mate i think ive posted this information on here before, but ill do it again in case. I have a barra r31 bf mk na motor/na zf trans combo with a china gt45.. this has a can barra to emulate speed... everything works fairly well and I skid it on the regular. a couple of months ago i had this issue where as it would get near onto full boost the trans would just go into limp mode. This was not all the time, but it was pretty common. The car actually ran fine and never misfired. I went through checking the canbarra / wiring, even tested the coils. loweing the boost, change plugs - all the normal crap. One time it did it i noticed the speed went away. so i contacted nigel from canbarra to see if i could test the unit. he said he saw a couple of cars b series/zfs where this would happen due to RMI from the coils killing the canbus comms, puting trans in limp mode. I thought to myself if its RF ill shield the ZF wiring and separate it - i did an ok job at that - but it was still the same issue. I changed the coils to brand new genuine (even tho they olds ones tested restance the same as the new ones) but the issue went away instantly. Nigel also mentioned the he had not heard of this issue on the Fg combos, so he suspected they did something different in the wiring.

it will either be 0 or 1 for full. i suspect 1. dont forget to change the throttle position to boost to cause thats afect the desire wg pressure table

Im not sure. You might need to make the entire field 0 or 1 then test voltage output

Yes. it will have the logic/software for turbo. just might no use them. things like the boost controller can be ignored as it does not have the hardware to control it. but it may still reference the desired boost table, so it knows when to do overboost protection - things like that.

there is an amount im ready to spend on a turbo pcm, but its just not what ive found them for. being na+t it would be nice to use the functions of the boost control to ramp in after peak torque. we will see, still a few other things to buy before i absolutely need the pcm. so maybe one will popup locally in that time.

yeah its just one of those things. Use a $50 PCM or a $550 + PCM with awesome boost control. I have a factory turbo territory and the boost control is nice, but i also run two na+t cars with more manual boost controls and they function just fine. To the point where i actually have a ba turbo 6 speed ecu to replace the one in the drift ute, for nearly 2 years but haven't bothered because it works just fine as is.

stock turbo MAP is 2 bar, but it will read up to 250kpa apparently. something like 22psi. But you would want to look at replacing it if you were going near that value.

I have bought a ft turbo zf auto, mated to a fg na+t motor for my patrol. I havent even got around to getting wiring or a pcm sorted. do you think ill need a APS 234 or will a 231 work?

its been a hot miniute, but if you fire up forscan and select the abs module for data log you can real time view all the abs sensors. if you driving straight i would suspect they should all be dead close, maybe look there.

whats is auF0359, fuel test? and why do you have it at 179/ stock 50. your fuel base cold needs to be richer, you have a few lean spots....its leaner than stock. it should not be affecting ur last log. but i would change it. the last two load lines should really match your desired fuel table. you have 0.88 at 1 load, it should be around 0.81. the second last table 0.6 load should be around .88-.9

Puffy is right. Check ur tune. Some configs have silly desired charge rates. Just set everything to 14.0 v. But no reason ur under 13v with car on. Check ur electrics

it does not just control the boost controller hysterics, it controls the boost cut and and tq retard if you go (something like 2.8psi above) so, add in some numbers.

Ta. I have a na+t, in a r31 .. so its still got na tc and i skid it, so i was worried about heat. Given the cars light with 3.89 diff the barra makes enough power without the tcc slipping. The other day i put the manshift tcc map into all of the variables and tbh it seems fine, thus far.