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BeerTurbo

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Everything posted by BeerTurbo

  1. 15 afr on boost? Stop driving it. Read the stock fuel table, will answer your question. 14.7 at idle / 11.8 on boost.
  2. is this still the case, with being unable to setup f6 on ba auto if you only have professional?
  3. ill just add to this. My terry low/mid load points are still fairly std so it will be doing 1Afr while spooling/on boost. I have towed a 2T caravan with it like this, without fault, water temp never reaches 100 deg c. My timing is factory, i haven't been game to touch it without knock ears. id say we have been like this 2 years, cause the kid just turned 2. I had to replace the wideband sensor (at around the 1.5 year mark) and i think i need to give it a new narrowband soon (but i have never changed it, so god knows how old it is)... wideband could have cooked because of hot exhaust, or because its on with car on - i really need to give it a startup delay. ill take these points with note and add some more low/mid throttle fuel in.
  4. yeah I had the intake set to 0 and requested overlap -15 and max overlap -15 and it was still sitting around that -10. interesting enough it would do this at idle too , so it seemed to ignore the idle setting and go straight of the main tables. the decel exh cam setting has a -18 option so tonight ill see if i can play with enough settings to see if it will go further... but also looking at max negative cells -10 does seem to be what factory uses. i had a play with these last night as the way its worded i thought maybe vct will only go to closed throttle mode from 0-1300 rpm but i could be reading this wrong.
  5. having a play with vct tonight, just to see if i could advance exhaust cam fully on decel to aid in possible decell flames. the scallers for decel cam angle dident seem to change anything. changing the angles in low low etc etc definatly got them moving, but i would prefer to work out how to make decel cam work instead. for testing i saw a max of -10.4 or 63.7 degrees cam actual on the exhaust cam. within the paramaters i gave it, there was the ability to go more but it did not seem to like going past -10...so maybe thats where max is? even just cruising and the exhaust cam at -10 you can smell alot of fuel leaving the exhaust.
  6. that some solid information Bill. Unfortunately i dont have workshop license, only professional. I'm just wondering how far advanced I can go with "Closed throttle Exhaust cam angle"
  7. I cant seem to find this, is this a professional only thing? am interested to know max retard/advance deg is on the exhaust cam in a bf.
  8. DFSO disabled change fuel map so there is a 0-175 ad counts (i found cruising at 100 i was at around 185 ad counts). then 2500+ edited fuel to be either rich or lean. change decel map, i ended up with alternating 0/-5. open closed loop transition table - changed above 3k to -100. otherwise decel goes open loop straight away. learning, super rich makes less crackle. i had no crackle at 0.5 and seemingly best crackles around 1.1 fuel settings. I left it for now at 0.96 as i did not want to leave it long term higher than lambada. Sounds best crackle when you extend decel map right out and make the decel timing alternate. Flames? no idea my exhaust is downward pointing id have to actually get a camera or second person. ZF decel in manual mode mostly goes into decel when you back of, i did catch it a couple of times go into tipout tourque so there was no crackle then. during normal drive modes there no crackle... as it wont go into decel map.
  9. This is not my video https://youtu.be/eYaRumQLv_Y
  10. this has been discussed over on this thread. I have left my e85 drifto ute on around 6-8 degree alternating on decel and it cracks nice, being manual it will crackle often, its also straight through exhaust. I have my daily turbo terry on around 8-10 deg alternations and it will crackle a little bit on in gear-decel, but you need to have it in manual mode for this otherwise the zf will just change gear and you wont get any pops - but im fine with this as its a daily and has a 4inch dump/cat and 3.5inch system with a hotdog and a muffler. I have a r31 with a bf na and zf, the exhaust is straight through with a single hotdog....it sounds like a general heap of crap over 1500 rpm. I experimented with decel timing and additional fuel but in the end put it more like the territory around 10 deg as it would be a bit obnoxious with low timing and additional fuel.
  11. another good point for ZF conversions is the reverse lights, if you dont have them connected the trans selector will flash on the dash and presumably be in error mode, as it produces a TCM error code. P1910 or p1911 or p1912 trans has two wires for reverse lights, both connect to the activation point on the relay. if your like me and were in a rush, you can simply wire in a resistor and it will think its connected.
  12. Allright that was a bit of a rollercoaster, but a big shoutout to everyone trying to help me in PM (Bill, Yoda, Nigel). Played with a lot of ZF settings that basically had no affect on the issue. The logs show the shift prevention active and eventually found the brake flag was doing the same thing as the ESP flag. Originally tried to do silly things like reduce the max esp time and so such, but it didn't change anything. The car had no brake switch connected and it was turned off in the PCM. In forscacan the brake log actually shows as off... but the ZF seems to do its own thing, possibly in a brake light failure mode? I stupidly tried to test the brake light, by turning it on and grounding out the wire and feeding it power - forscan just allways showed it on. Infact when the brake switch was turned on in the pcm forscan would allways show brake ON. that sorta wasted some time. Nigel basically told me to wire up the brake switch correctly, as it will do sanity checks and expect Ground and +12 inputs. So after wiring in the nissan brake switch, forscan was still showing BOO:ON but the ZF log would mimic the brake pedal with the brake flag. its worth noting here you cannot use the cruse control brake and brake switches tied together as they get reversed inputs and the cruse has a small dead zone - so you need to change to a falcon brake switch. With the ZF seeing brake, the holding 1st gear issue was gone and it changed gears as expected.
  13. hi bill this latest stuff is all with the zf config as stock. limp mode was locked 3rd/or 4th its hard to tell with the 3.9 rear gear the car just moves even in the high gears... but it was locked to one of the higher gears. log shows 1-3 shift but it does hit 2 its just not logging fast enough. yeah temps been everywhere, still same. its been running in car for last 8 months and im only now getting around to trying to fix it, because i could ignore it before but now its kinda annoying me.
  14. Hi Bill, the zf config is stock in the data log I posted. i ran the conversion without a canbarra and it would drive in limp mode, with the canbarra its not in limp mode - but has allways held 1st. I can zeros out 1st in the shift map and it will takeoff in second and shift like normally into other gears.
  15. if you dont mind, id like to see it yes
  16. did some data log and you can see it knows the oss to shift at, but goes way past it for first gear only. it has up-shift prevention on. is there a way to find out what :upshiftprevention its using to ask it why its active? upshift prevention.teclog
  17. hi bill, im chasing an issue where my zf holds 1st gear...so i played with the E trans setting, turning it off... ive driven the car a couple of times since and noticed no change. what changes were you hoping for?
  18. change to a turbo map sensor. change fuel pressure to 4bar turn on turbo logic, change map sensor, import spark load map from a turbo/ lower your spark/tune it corectly. i would also change valve springs. as a minimum.
  19. I added about 22 percent fuel to the entire range using the speed density table. At idle and cruse the LTFT was saying 1.21...at full throttle it was saying 0.75. i think i have a fuel slosh/pickup issue anyway..
  20. did you get anywhere with tuning the btr?
  21. Ok Team, time to pick your brains. I cannot for the life of me get my bf/zf/r31 to change out of 1st gear in D or P mode before 2k. This is lowest load possible it will always be above 2k before it shifts into second. then usually straight into 3 and maybe 4th. In manual mode everything is fine. ive done stupid stuff like change all the oss in 1st gear to 1, still stays in 1st. I cant understand why it refuses to change as per the shift maps, is there some setting im overlooking, something that keeps it holding a gear?
  22. i have a bf2 n zf combo in a r31. i had to get a canbarra to emulate ABS otherwise the trans would go into failmode. I played with everything i thought reasonable to get around this, without success. i didn't play with the above mentioned settings. nigel told me you could byass this in fg ones but not bf ones. do you want me to test something that might help?
  23. its been forever since ive done BTR stuff, however with the ZF you can just use the unit converter in pcmtec to see the shift points, i presume will work for BTR files. click utility, unit converter, go to speed up top, click load values from file. change the rpm around and it will show you the oss. remembering a BTR will take a solid forever to change gears, so altho it may say 5k is your shift point it may change at 5800. The zf is similar, however from expense its more like 150 rpm or so of, zf changes much quicker.
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