BeerTurbo

the responsible adult in me thinks this is stupid. The rest of me is like, ducken hell I need my territory family car to throw flames like this.

Hi Rolland, Over the last year or so, did you guys find a way to add those FG turbocharger settings into a Bf/Territory series ECM? auF2714 - Calibrateable wastegate duty cycle when gear change is in progress. auF3002 - Change in spark adder to waste gate duty cycle.

I copied the fg shift schedule and information that was in the territory map. this made no difference to the lowdown kick into 1st. I may change the speed-gear schedule and see. i think it will remove it because if you manually shift it into 1 once its not moving there is no bump. every shift has improved, except for a weried spot around 30-45 percent throttle, in the 2-3 shift where it seems to change out of two, let the engine flare up in rpm, before shifting into 3rd. anyway, i should just proberly pay someone to tune it who knows whats there doing.

HACH4K6

I will admit to stupidity because i did try before posting and yes it did go into limp mode. I thought maybe there was another way. I then took the f6 territory HACH4A5 and moved that config over. got myself ABS and TRC lights on the dash and the gearbox was slipping, so i just went back to std. i would love to know how to make it stop clunking, the low speed clunk you get when coasting down to a stop. around 7kmhr it does what i assume is change into first and goes clunk. if anyone wants to share there ZF secrets ill be all ears on that one.

can you use the HAEK4PE zf calibration on a B series

tourque limiting is standard during a shift event. if its off the car can just freely maintain rpms and power between shifts and it would proberly bang into gear harshly.

only for workshop bois tho? also i need to google more https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:TiN8dWqHbrgJ:https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php%3F69602-Ba-Xr6t-with-a-bf-ecu+&cd=17&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au when used in a stand alone setup the main differences are the bf alternator com wires replace the 2 ba pedal wires at b28 & b29 which then share 5v on pin b45 and share signal return on b33 instead, the o2 wires are all part of the A plug/engine harness in bf, the bf alternator warning wire replaces the o2 signal wire from ba at b8, bf has an extra knock sensor and all the btr control is through the c plug in bf.

Hi Team. HACCKD5 / 2008 / Spanish Oak 1024K - is this Bf ECM? I was trying to get this to replace my BA ecu, and after much dicking around i decided the wiring may be different. The ECM does give throttle pedal error and does nothing when you touch the throttle. It does start and idle, however it kinda sounded like it was running on three cylinders. it does have the three plug option, where as my ba was only two plugs. any thoughts?

going to do a Bump and ask how you went raising the rev limiter.

Just on this, in my territory i changed auF1265 from 1.2s to 8Secionds as suggested auF0228 to 10 deg from 1500 rpm. (i have used other values with success in my e85 car, but this is 98r road car) on decel the zf just changes gear so nothing really happens. if you put it in manual gear selection and get a deceleration, it will make some popping noises (mine also still has a high flow cat and two high flow mufflers so they will dull it down)

My shitter had a slow start and a bit of a stutter on idle... I used the base idle fuel map to add a fair bit more fuel, the std falcon map leans out quite quickly. well compared to nissans im used to. Used the idle adder with ECT to add 100 idle untill around 60 deg. Car started much nicer and was happyier...still had an idle stumble. > battery was bad - changed to new battery and car started instantly and the stumble/miss is gone. i know this is no help to your bwm start, but i figgure its helpfull note that making it richer and idle higher is prob not a bad idea.

now there is data log it may be easier to find this out.

just having a flick thro the manual now. two points caught my eye * i think i used a shorter bung, may double check. A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the inside of the exhaust piping, this does not adversely effect the readings. * as puff said : Do not pre-warm the sensor before starting the engine, start the engine as you normal would. Allowing the sensor to pre-warm before starting the engine will increase the possibility of damaging the sensor from shock-cooling. - Im pretty sure having the wide-band controlled from the factory ford o2 will remove any possible shock loading

My second 02 is off and disabled, using details from another thread. as im not using that plug for anything, does it still fire the pwm controlled heater circuit? as it may be a nicer way to get my wide-band ON I guess i could do some testing.

you have peaked my interest. Does the ecm 1) only run this with engine running 2) have a delayed start feature for moisture/whatever reason ?

cheers Rolland. The unit was new when i bought it, and had it roughly in the car 6 months before it played up. this was about 3-4 months ago now as i've been ignoring i due to having a kid. But its come time for a general service so i may as well fit a new sensor. Its mounted facing 2 oclockish, so its fairly upward. Its connected to the cars 12v - i did wonder if turning the key to ignition annoys it, as it does turn on for a sec, then off while cranking then back on again. Perhaps i might put a switch inline and just turn it on when i want to watch it, or only when cars at temp like you say, no longer spitting water.

on a side note, i'm ruining a Innovative mtxl with the bosh 4.9 wide-band sensor, just before the cat and the sensor is apparently dead. looking up the tune in my car cat overtemp is still on and is set to std 873 deg C. Looks like the 4.9 sensor max temp is 930 deg C curious to know how often they would actually get to that temperature. Have seen a few people place copper sheet around the 02 to sheild the body from heat, perhaps this is where the fault comes from...even so it says the body is raited to 500deg C In one of the forums a poster said they dont like going from fuel to no fuel conditions. perhaps a heat sheild and a little tickle to the fuel shutoffs are in order?

the turbo has a smaller flapper for controlling boost, which is fine with a restrictive exhaust - however if you fit a higher flowing exhaust the boost is going to spike and increase as the std turbo cant release enough gas quickly enough. for reference i had a Ba Na motor with the turbo gear attached -so yeah higher compression... but with the 3inch straight through exhaust and connections straight to the std wastegate actuator (4.5psi) the car was easily hitting 8 psi of boost before we backed off (it was trying to go higher but we also ran outa fuel) lots of different ways to get around this, for the stock look you can port the flapper valve to a larger diameter (std is 33mm and common to port to 37mm) an external gate is a great way to control boost, ive personally installed turbo-smart 45mm waste-gates on both mine. The new gen2 gtx turbo with xr6 housing has the option for a pre ported 39mm exhaust flapper.

I bought a wiring adapter, and was going to install one one mine.... but never got around to it. so this is proberly not helpful

Late to the party, but back at ya Puffy! Hope it was full of many barra related presents.

I know ive asked before and you have said no one else has really requested it, but its been some time so i was wondering if anyone else has request boost maps based on transmission modes? L/h boost for D/P modes? + is activation of the launch control mode possible when your on the brake and touching accelerator > instead of holding cruse control?

Hi Mate, i cant say specifically if the BF has the same VSS input as the BA ecu does, but it wont hurt to just look over the ecu and see if the pins free. http://www.fordmods.com/fordmods-technical-documents-diy-f38/ford-ba-ecu-pcm-pinouts-t126928.html PCM Pin B7……...................……….Vehicle Speed Signal VSS what sort of speed input do you have on the coaster? will need to be a 5v square wave type. shiftkitsaustralia helped me by making a box that converted the abs AC signal to a square wave signal for the ba VSS input, this is how i was able to get speed input from a car without ABS module from factory.

there is a verry good boost information thread on here mate, give it a read. once it hits over-boost it will do forms torque reduction. so check your desired boost table and the overboost table to calculate the boost required before reduction...7psi might be low enough to trigger it at some stages as i think its 4.5psi over table request, but read up on the threads here. in your case i would not have the electronic boost control connected and use the bare minium mechanical boost control avalible to you until you understand whats your doing. look at your desired fuel table and you need to aim for something close to that.....so at idle your can do stoich and when your turbos on boost you want it around 11.8 afr and not overly higher....... and you will need to pay with your speed D tables. but im with rolland, get a tuner to have a play first.

recently did a track day and people were commenting on another barras decel pop, so i asked the guy and he said his tuner set 10deg on decel. i had a quick play with mine and for the video had the higher rpm set to -2 I could notice it at 10, at -2 it was verry noticable...i ended up leaving it at 6 and it was fine for me....this was straight thro exhaust and e85. after reading the antilag thread i might try and give the 2-3k range bulk fuel and max spark clip to see it it helps spool the turbo, might be a while before i see the track again for testing tho.